Fixing/Cleaning the case lid switch.

Discussion in 'Sega Dreamcast Development and Research' started by Turranius, Jun 23, 2015.

  1. Turranius

    Turranius Site Supporter 2015

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    It was suggested that this deserved its own thread, so here it is =)

    While I was moving the switch over from the original GDI-CDRom to the USB-GDRom, I had problems getting the USB-GDRom to detect that I opened/closed the lid.
    Checking the switch with a multimeter in beep mode, it was quite clear that it did not work as it should. I had to wiggle it for it to make contact. I thought it was busted.

    But, there is a way to open and clean the switch. As far as I've noticed, there are two types of switches.

    I never had any problems with the switch and the original GDI-CDRom though, so I guess the USB-GDRom is just a bit pickier. Might be worth doing if you're going to move it, even if you do not have a problem.

    Here are some instructions for cleaning both of them. I used some cotton and 97% isopropanol (IPA) and some fine pliers to clean all the contacts but I bet some acetone or similar works just as well.

    Note: Make sure you have plenty of space around the switch when doing this. The parts are small and are easily lost if they fly away.

    This switch was easier IMO, since it did not "explode" when opened. You can see if you have this type on the flap you have to remove (#1 in the picture). If the flaps are on the long ends, this is the one. Gently pry one side up with something sharp (just 1mm and it will release). Then do the same to the other side and lift it out.

    #2 there, do not bend the metal part apart too much. When you put it back, make sure that you can move the switch before snapping it together. If the angle is too high on it, it'll just hit the bottom at 90 degrees and prevent the switch from closing.

    [​IMG]

    The second one has a different flap that holds it together and was harder to get off. It is also slightly wider (Check how much of the through hole solder points that is visible and how it differs). With a very sharp knife or similar ( i used an exactoknife, I think they are called ), it went smoothly. Just be careful and do not use force as its delicate plastic. This switch, while it worked, did lose continuity if I wiggled it a bit from side to side when fully pressed, so I figured I'd clean it too.

    [​IMG]

    This one came flying off due to the spring when I opened both flaps. As with the first one, I bent the spring a little to get a better contact, but that was a mistake. When I snapped it together again, it gave continuity on the multimeter even when opened. It should look like it does on the picture above.

    The spring will most likely fall off from where its seated, as it did for me above. Do not worry as its easy to see how to fit it back. It has two loops in different sizes and it only fits back one way.

    Both switches work a hell of a lot better after cleaning up.
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2015
    RedRingRico, Ren and Anthony817 like this.
  2. bart_simpson

    bart_simpson Dauntless Member

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    these switchs are really hard to get hold of replacements there made by alps
     
  3. Anthony817

    Anthony817 Familiar Face

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    This needs a sticky.
     
  4. Rindaman

    Rindaman Member

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    Is there any possibility to solder wires to a switch to simulate the lever? I tried with two wires (one to right upper and right lower holes; and alternatively one to left upper and left lower holes), but nothing happens. I join the wires, I sepparate them... and nothing. What are the correct position for the wires?
     
  5. Rocky5

    Rocky5 Site Supporter 2015

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    Closed, so wires together.

    What exactly is it you are doing? Step by step from when you select the game to when you try to swap the image.

    As the only game that works with swapping is now D2 & the cheat disc work, but there not games.
     
  6. Rindaman

    Rindaman Member

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    I would like to simulate opening the lid while gaming to access the dasboard. Since I don't have a desolderer, I'd rather prefer not using the original lever. I know there is a "launch dashboard.iso", but I would like to use the lid switch method. Using the iso means turning off the console and turning on again. Therefore I would like to make swapping with D2 (if I play enough in the distant future).

    In the attached image there are four points/holes I try to connect with wires.
    a) I connect 1 & 2
    b) I connect 3 & 4
    c) I connect 1 & 2 and 3 & 4, and then connect 1/2 & 3/4
    I join and separate them wires and nothing happens.

    I don't know what I'm doing wrong. I'm completely useless at electronics...
     

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  7. Rocky5

    Rocky5 Site Supporter 2015

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    Connect 1-2 or 3-4.

    To test, connect your wires, make sure they are in the holes correctly & are soldered or taped in touching the vias.

    No twist the wires together, now turn on th DC & select the image you want to swap to, now select launch dashboard.iso you will be taken to the DC bios screen if you are not already in the music play go there. Now un-twist the wires & twist them back together, the new image you selected should load in the music player, if you repeate the UGC image will load so you can get back to the UGC menu.
     
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