Yes the different pinout was really the issue with DOL-013. However, no cable mod would be necessary with an externally powered LM1881, so perhaps that makes it worth it. Jaguar cable: will look into this next, then perhaps SCPH-1052. (Just to reiterate, these work for me with externally powered LM1881) Perhaps another possibility would be to design the switch so as to draw power from pin 8 OR pin 16 if no power is present at the [yet to be added] DC jack.
My switch needs power not only for LM1881 but for other components such as multiplexer and priority encoder. These don't eat a lot of power but it will not work at all otherwise. So you mean that Jaguar and PSX+SCPH-1052 work through switch with turned off LM1881 and using external one through your SCART->XRGB adapter? If so - it's power issue and will also be resolved using external DC. I thought about powering switch from pin 16, but it's usually connected through some resistance so it will not work. Currently the only solution I see is to add DC power jack and override any SCART-supplied voltage (and use either pin 8 or pin 16 just for detection). Neo Geo Omega CMVS: can you check that it provides stable 5V or higher from pin 8? (it would be good to check voltage when it's turned on through switch directly before voltage regulator, that way we'll make sure there is no any resistance on pin 8) And some stable voltage from pin16? (it's used for automatic detection) EDIT: No need to try SCPH-1052, I know what was wrong with it! Official cable doesn't provide enough power - that's why it was very unstable. I see 1.82V under load, which is not always enough even to power multiplexers! And in current design LM1881 drain power even if it isn't used (should be able to turn it off with same switcher in future). Official cable works perfectly if I power switch externally.
Okay, understood. Yes, sounds good. Sounds like the best plan, cool. Will try to test this today. Wow, 1.82V is so small. No wonder. Also wanted to mention - I received the RGB kit from Otaku's store (http://www.otakus-store.net/en/modding-kit/279-3do-rgb-modding-full-kit.html) on Friday and had some time to install it yesterday. The kit requires a LM1881 to be installed with my version of the console (BT9101) so that HS and VS can be acquired from composite video and the image can be centered with a potentiometer on the board. Happy to say the the results for 3DO with this kit and your switch is success!
Good job! Judging from pictures it was quite a pain to install it. It's great it works with my switch . I still want to buy that kit but IMHO it's a bit overpriced.
Yeah, overpriced and they removed all markings on the chip to prevent someone from making their own from components...boo The 24 solder points (8 for each color) were the hardest. Very tiny and close together. I had a friend helping me and it still took about four hours.
I might be a little late to the party but wanted to chime in: Once you’re done and selling them (with a DC Jack) I’m getting two! Whoohoo!
I have 3 options to add DC jack to current design: 1. create SCART cable with DC female lead (will use 1 SCART input) 2. solder female DC lead to SCART output connector (will look a little bit weird but I think it's best option) 3. solder female DC lead directly to voltage regulator (will not use any SCART input, but will not look good)
I was hoping for two DC jacks - one in (XRGB Mini supply), and one out (to XRGB Mini). That would mean all new design and PCB though, I guess?
I have its schematics, actually it's not designed by Arcade Otaku... They are someone else's work and publicly available...
Not to steer this thread off topic, but if you would have used a smaller gauge wire it would make it a lot easier. I've installed this in an fz-10 and didn't think it was all that bad.
You mean to power up both switch and xrgb with one power supply, right? You can use thing like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-to-2-Powe..._Audio_Power_Speaker_Wire&hash=item3a90b25b76
Agreed, smaller gauge would have been great. Probably should have waited for the mouser order to come but I was itching to get it done since I had a friend over who was willing to help. The other thing that would have helped is a finer iron tip (ordered one!). Desoldering the RF connector and using the hole for the DIN8 was part of that four hours - if you enlarge the hole and use the ring they provide with the DIN8, it won't be able to screw down due to the proximity to the board...so we improvised Oh okay, great! Thanks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-ft-Kynar...asuring_Layout_Tools&var=&hash=item3cc09d1be7 I got each color and I find them perfect for modding stuff.
I ordered this stuff: https://www.adafruit.com/products/1446 - not labeled Kynar but hopefully its similar?
So I got all components for external power supply and resolved these issues. Final "promotional" price for first 5 switches will be $85 (airs got one, another person is waiting for it, so 3 more are available). Output SCART connector now has DC jack wire. You can power up switch using any PSU 7-12V, center is "-". For example you can use Mega Drive/Genesis PSU. Electrolytic capacitor installed on board to resolve unstable power issues (Dreamcast 12V from SCART is unstable). If your cables are routed according to Tim's schematics - most likely you will not need external power supply. Today I have retested all my consoles (NES, SNES, GC, WII, SMS, SMD1, SMD2, SAT, DC, PSX, PS2, PS3, Jaguar, Xbox), everything works perfectly. Later I will create some FAQ where I will describe possible cable/power/sync issues with every console.
Hi, I'd be very interested in reviewing this under scrutiny with a capture card once it is done. Will you make a mini-din to SCART breakout so that it can be used as a traditional SCART switch too? Don't take this the wrong way, I completely support your efforts, but I've never once found a automatic SCART switch with no manual override that has worked for me. Usually this is due to slight inconsistencies etc on the wiring of SCART cables. If you can nail this then absolutely hats off to you
By default I provide MiniDIN->SCART cable, here in topic you can find picture of 3 switches with such cables. Hmm, automatic detection isn't that hard. As long as your SCART cable has pin16 routed correctly - there shouldn't be any problems.