Actully both the screen jumpyness issues were caused by my power supply. I retried the dreamcast with the sync stripper off and it is not jumping anymore. The saturn cable I have is for NTSC. I got it (and most of my cables) from retro_console_assossories on ebay.
I recall I bought some cables from them too. I really need to put together my notes about RGB-SCART cables and issues I've encountered during switch development, still busy with other things these days.
Hopefully I wont have any more issues. Seems to be working perfectly now with the better power supply. I still would like to get a different one as I dont want to leave that super old Genesis 1 supply plugged in all the time.
I got mine few days ago but I haven't had the chance to test it out yet. Need to get more SCART cables and maybe bite the bullet and finally pickup a Sony BVM locally. Mine cheap Chinese scaler just feels cheap. The switch seems very well designed and well put together. However, I would suggest @superg to maybe consider flip all the SCART socket mounting screws to the other side. Instead of attaching the nuts over the bottom of the plexiglass, attach them on the socket side so the screw head are clamping the plexiglass instead. With the current orientation the end of the screws may scratch your furniture or other surfaces if you are not careful. Under normal condition the four rubber feet should elevate the switch enough to prevent that from happening, but you never know. Ideally counter sink/sunk the plexiglass will be better, but I know that's extra work.
Finished testing most of my consoles. I have a couple variants that are buried in a closet that I may pull out sometime, but they should work the same as the one I tested below. All consoles were tested with both they sync stripper on an off and switch is connected to an xrgb-mini with the sync level set to 9. They worked ok unless noted in red: Sega Saturn Model 1 Dreamcast with Hanzo/Kenzei Neo Geo CDZ PS1 model SCPH-7501 and PSone model SCPH-101 SNES mini with both c-sync and composite video as sync SNES (original model) with both c-sync and composite video as sync 3do FZ-10 with RGB mod from Otaku's Store AV Famicom with NESRGB using composite video as sync (csync has issues on this console so I cannot use it) NES-101 toploader with NESRGB using both csync and composite video as sync N64 using both c-sync and composite video as sync Sega Genesis CDX both with and without a 32x attached PC Engine Duo-R RGB modded by doujindance Overall I think this is a great switch and would recommend it to anyone looking for a good scart switch. I like the design of the ports being on top better than the Bandridge automatic 5 port switches I was using before. Also had tried to daisy chain 2 of the Bandridges together and the 2nd switch would not pass sync through the 1st switch to the xrgb-mini. Edit: Had some sync issues using an aftermarket power supply for the xrgb-mini (mainly with c-sync from snes and n64). Everything works fine with original xrgb-mini power supply.
Hooked up the switch tonight. LM1881 is turned off as I have it already in my current adapter. I'm waiting for another to show up that does not have it. SNES: Works N64: Works NESRGB modded Sharp Twin Famicom: Works X'Eye: Works Saturn: Works I have some other stuff I'm waiting on and at some point I'll get a Hanzo/Kenzei to get my Dreamcast hooked up too. Edit: Little update. I noticed earlier today when I had Super Metroid's title screen on loop that it was missing the right audio channel. After a lengthy process of elimination, it ended up being the included cable of the switch. I'm not entirely sure the exact cause, but my best guess is that it was shorting against another pin or wire (most likely the LM1881 power adapter cable). I reseated everything in the housing and tried again and got the right audio back. I also zip-tied down the LM1881 power adapter cable as I think that was the most likely culprit when I was first investigating. Just a heads up, the switch is great otherwise!
Don't know how I missed that, I'm glad you sorted it out. Every switch I am testing in powered and unpowered mode, all input connectors using two different consoles. Can anybody advice what game I need to easily test stereo output and RGB colors? (I'd prefer some Sega Genesis ROM image) Also it looks like Mini-DIN output wasn't so great idea, I'd better put an additional SCART in output mode (swapped audio and composite), there are plenty of SCART->SCART cables available on eBay and I wouldn't have to solder these also .
Artemio's 240p test suite is what I used along with the SNES Test ROM to check sound. Believe the SNES Test ROM also covers colors. I haven't gone to deep into Artemio's 240p test suite so I'm not sure on color testing.
Yeah. That's probably the best. There is a genesis version available: http://junkerhq.net/xrgb/index.php/240p_test_suite
However current design imply that it will simply use stronger power. For instance if you'll connect Dreamcast (12V) and power it with PSU (9V), it will consume Dreamcast power. EDIT: I was wrong, external power will be used in this example ;P
Just got home and new XRGB mini adapter without LM1881 circuit built in arrived today. Did more thorough testing: NESRGB modded Sharp Twin Famicom with luma for sync: Failed with LM1881 turned off. Passed with LM1881 turned on. SNES Mini with CSYNC cable: Passed with LM1881 turned on and off N64 with board modified for luma for sync: Failed with LM1881 turned off. Passed with LM1881 turned on. JVC X'Eye - Genesis/Megadrive Model 2 cable used is marked for "boosted sync" when I originally got it, not sure what that means though : Failed with LM1881 turned off. Passed with LM1881 turned on. Sega Saturn: Failed with LM1881 turned off. Passed with LM1881 turned on. LM1881 circuit on switch was powered by each console's individual SCART cable and power jack was not used/needed. Sync level on XRGB Mini was left unadjusted at 0 during testing.
On the NESRGB, I left it on luma because I was lazy after figuring out an obvious solution to why I was having problems after installing it. It works so I left it there. For the N64 using luma gets rid of ugly crosshatching artifacts that are seen after RGB modding a N64.
I see what you mean, but I don't think it will look good with nuts on top . However feel free to reverse them if you want. Also I couldn't find any better mounting combination. If not screw length (25mm), I could reduce switch height by 3-4mm. If I could find a way to attach PCB to bottom plexiglass without using these 16 screws - it would be great, I don't like seeing screw head on top at all.
