Mega-CD real region free on game discs

ok now im gonna be a NOOB

do I just remove old one and install new one soldering ALL pins

I wont be piggy backing

Sega CD 2 NTSC model


second I saw APE mention previously that its advisable not to use de-solder braid to remove (yet he has done it)

why is this so I know the risks if I decide to do that

 

Its a direct replacement if using a chip the correct size

 

its the that you sent me


so I just solder all pins in the exact same spot as the old one

 

Yes, that is what direct replacement means

 

brill cheers

 

Just because I did it doesn't make it a good idea. I can tell you what happened: the braid didn't remove all of the solder and I had to spend a lot of time babying the damn mask rom to get it out without destroying any traces. A piggyback makes more sense given there is plenty of space and you only pull one pin from the original mask rom. Plus if you deem it necessary to replace it it isn't some ordeal to remove it a second time.

At least socket the thing if you're going to remove the original chip completely.

 

I use braid all the time. Just because you cant use it, doesn't make it a bad idea.

 

I just purchased a rework station so this is my plan

desolder all joints with a solder sucker as best I can

braid mop any remnants left over

at this point no pulling or pushing pressure will be applied to the chip

then heat the whole thing up with the solder station and carefully pull the chip away

all the same time making sure that I have foiled over the other components

then replacement will be via a 40 pin precision socket (I have never been keen on the standard sockets)

I agree if done properly it should be ok

the main reason to ask was I because I was confused as to why people say no don't do it (example: it causes shorting)

 

If I can't use it it stands to reason others might not be able to either and given I have nearly a decade of experience it also stands to reason that someone with less experience will have even more trouble.

But the inverse is also true.

 

Once you have a proper desoldering station you'll never need to use braid for big jobs ever again. It makes removing 40-pin ICs very trivial and causes no damage to the board.

That's just asking for trouble, I'd never even think about taking a heat gun to through-hole components.

 

Already have a desoldering station.

BGA rework station too.

 

I don't and probably should set aside the cash for both. I've got a CDX to recap and am not looking forward to it.

 

in all honesty I don't think I will get that far and the chip will pop out before that

plus cutting the chip legs makes for a easier job

that way youre only removing one leg at a time

(but then again I just had forum user Bart Simpson offer to do it for a fee)

still not decided as I like to do things myself purely for the learning curve

 

I was feeling bored this morning so I took a crack at the Sega CD 2

here is the progress so far

removed BIOS (No lost traces) (That's a first for me)


Also removed Battery and LED (still not decided on which colour LED to use)

 

Why you removed the battery ? It's very likely still working. Oh and remember it's a MNO2 rechargeable type. Don't put a CR2032 there, it WILL LEAK.

 

OOPS

 

ok this has put a spanner in the works a little bit

can I get away with a Li-Ion Rechargeable battery

and is it important that its 3V or can I use 3.6V

 

If you're worried about it being bad, (after you test it) you can replace the original ML2016 it with a beefier ML2032 for extra long save duration. ML2032 was the battery used on the USA VA0 Dreamcast.

This one has the correct pads pre-installed from factory:

http://www.tnrbattery.com/ml2430-hs1-sanyo-battery-3v-rechargeable-ml2430-mno2-li-lithium-cell/

Edit: Make sure you let the MEGA-CD unit run for a few days so the battery can charge before judging if the battery is good or bad.

 

LI-ION batteries use different charge strategy than what the MEGA-CD circuit uses. That won't work very well.

There's a very high chance the original battery is still working.

 

my last resort is to use a battery holder and pop the old battery back in

I have removed the spot welded tabs.

The original Battery is MnO2-Li (Lithium Manganese Dioxide)


I have seen a few places to get one but they aren't cheap

apparently the BMW keyfob uses them

£10 delivered on ebay