My first attempts at Retr0bright

That's interesting. Where do you find them?

 

http://www.tea4two.jp/products/detail.php?product_id=80

 

Thanks! Unfortunately they don't seem to have the black stickers at the back of the console (the ones that say 'TV <> GAME', 'CH1 <> CH2', 'RF SWITCH', etc).

 

Damn, well I guess those would be easier to print yourself since they're not on clear plastic.

 

Nice write up. Earlier this summer I used a method that uses a %30 hydrogen peroxide on two SNES units and it left some horrible white streaks on the shell. I was very disappointed with the results.

 

How did you do it.

The best method is just to submerge the console in hydrogen peroxide.

 

I'll have to remember that next time. I want to get a UV light setup to work on future consoles if possible. The method I used was to take %30 hydrogen peroxide cream and spread the cream on the shell. Once applied I covered the parts with plastic wrap and I left them out in the sun for over 8 hours. I would rotate the parts as needed.

 

this thread has me interested about the retro bright process, and if oxyclean alone will have any results. so did a little test, and placed a few pieces in the Queensland Australian sunlight.

The not so yellowed pieces have already been in the sun for 1 day. nothing but water and oxyclean



and after 1 day in the sun. the bottom piece was floating on the surface, so probably didn't receive the full benefit.



and the stuff i purchased, it was $5AUD

 

My experience using various things (creme developer, the "peroxide & oxiclean only" method, liquid developer) has been mixed at best.

Creme developer almost always leaves streaks or "burn" marks and I highly suggest avoiding it.
Submerging in liquid developer works, but it's expensive for larger pieces.
Peroxide & Oxiclean only doesn't work for me, even on a clear, 20C day.

I have yet to try the "original "recipe, although I probably should before I write this stuff off completely. It's obvious that people have had good results online, but I really think the type of material you use it on and how well you put together the mixture makes a huge difference.

In general, attempting this on extremely yellowed SNES parts (as Malcom did above) did not work at all for me. Submersion worked reasonably well for me on less yellowed SNES parts, and the smaller they were, the better it worked.

Worth experimenting if you have the time to do so, but in general I wouldn't waste too much time on this.

 

FYI guys, the white streaks are the result of letting the cream dry out. If you're using the cream method, make sure to wrap the part in cling wrap so it doesn't dry out.

 

Just a note for aussies after the developer 40. I found it at priceline $10aud for 1L

 

so on the weekend i sold a super famicom modded with supercic, the console was yellowed. So excited about my recent creme developer 40 purchase, i offered to de yellow it for free.
The shell was placed in a large plastic container with the lid on.
This product can be purchased at https://www.priceline.com.au/search/?q=Innovative Creme Developer - 40 Vol 1 L
below are the results



and the results after 1 day in sun. not bad, but it was a very sunny day!



still need to complete the cartridge slot widening.

 

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=899984

 

i think i read this on Retrobright forums that just the air ( oxygen ) causes yellowing. Maybe this is the cause for consoles to re-yellow after a year or two ?


i use zip lock bags as a preventative and for dust

 

WOW, that came out great!

 

I notice alot of people like to clearcoat on here which is really nice in preservation. While i do not have the best cleaning methods compared to some combinations that have been found I can attest that..... wait for it..... carnauba wax for cars... a good quality with a high carnauba content. I ran a performance automotive shop for a few years and found that high quality wax preserves plastics nicely and protects them while also allowing easy removal and reapplication if needed. It is not as thick as clear coat and alot easier to apply evenly (with room for error). You can add or take away as much as needed to get the right shine and polish, get a good microfiber towel with the carnaube, run the plastics through the dishwasher, clean, wash again then apply and it looks great IMO.


no pics right now but will take some when i get a chance!

 

I have access to 80% hydrogen peroxide industrial grade in liquid form. I might give this a shot on my yellowed Snes.

 

put the super famicom plate in the sun for another day. seems good enough now. next time i will try putting smaller pieces in a zip lock bag.

 

w0w.. hope you have industrial grade gloves!

 

Yea my bro works with that shit all day so I know the safe way of handling it.