PlayStation/PSone Slot Loading Drive

Dont need to make a PCB. Just use stripboard. The arduino (More precisely the ATMEGA328) doesnt need much supporting components to do what you are doing.

 

UPDATE

Thanks Bad, I will do just that. I dont know why I would waste a completed Arduino board in it. Ignore my comment above your's (#40).
I just need the Atmega, the crystal and the power. Thats all.


At the moment, I am trying to get a relay and transistor to trigger the power and the direction. From there, I will wire it up to the sensors

Oh, I will share the schematic later... When I can be bothered to fire up EAGLE that is...


Oh, and here is the breakout board from the above board with the paper clips. LOL.
This is my first etched PCB. EVER.

 

UPDATE

The relay and transistor were not needed. The H-bridge has such a thing built in.

I have the entire motor system automated!
I also have the infra-red photo-transistors working!

Just working on the PCB now
The final PCB will not have all straight traces of course. That was for the prototype.

 

cool, nice to see its still moving along

 

UPDATE

The Slot Loader is SOLD so it will not be for sale afterwards.

I got the PCB made and working perfectly fine. I just need to remake it as version 3 with some adjustments that I found missing on this board shown below (version 2.0).
Everything was surface mounted. It is a single sided board. However, I will change that in version 3.0, and drill all the holes manually.

Does anyone know where I can find something like 'Liquid Tin' in Australia? It turns the copper to a steal looking appeal, and prevents corrosion.
The Atmega footprint is also too big. That will be replaced. The green pads you see, and so I can solder on wires.

More to come soon!

 

Just apply solder to all the copper, then use braid to remove it all. The surface will remain tinned and is what you are after.

 

Yeah, that's one option and good idea. I will do that. Thanks Bad

Here is an image for comparison. You can see the older (v1) board on the left is seriously corroded, where as the newer (v2) board on the right is shinier.
You can scroll up a bit and even see a photo I took of it when it was new and shiny.

 

UPDATE

Version 3.0. A much smaller footprint and improved layout.
I will etch it tomorrow and try your idea Bad

New images added. Scroll back up to see them.

 

Is there a reason you didn't put capacitors near the crystal's legs? Normally these are needed to stabilize the frequency. Are you relying on the capacitance created by the copper trace to do the job? I don't work alot with atmel chips but I doubt these are any different from other microcontrollers.

Anyway good luck with your project, it looks awesome!

 

I knew that you should put capacitors on the crystal. However, the Atmel Atmega328 has an internal oscillator circuit clock generator which should have the capacitors already inline.
If not, since I used a 16.00 MHz crystal, the schematic states that I should have put a 22 pF capacitor.

The circuit is working fine however, and I wanted to experiment what would happen. Nothing did, so I left it as it was.

 

Credit where its due - you are learning quickly. (but you should have put the caps on)

 

Thanks Bad. I will put them in the final board for stability.

 

Great to see such progress Haunted, good luck!!

 

I have ran into a problem.

The LED's are to tall. I got 3mm IR LED's and I just installed them but the disc wont spin because of it.
I know you can get smaller than 3mm such as this: http://www.ledsb2b.com/1-80mm-round-subminiature-axial-infrared-chip-led-pr74.html
However I would like to buy them from someone who is actually selling them, and I dont have to enquire or order a minimum of 300.

I would have used the factory IR/LED combo, but I did not know the power ratings and therefore they would eventually fry.
I can always just cut out the metal case and lower them because at the moment they are being raised with a bump in the steel, but I would rather not do this.


I will try the company above, but does anyone know where I can get micro IR LED's from?

 

Some random electronic device you're not using?
You could always shave off some of the plastic, if it's just a little that's obstructing the discs.

I've been lurking for a while, super interested in this project!

 

I could cut off some of the LED's cone, but then the beam would not focus correctly.

Rather just get some of those 1.5mm IR LED's linked above.

 

UPDATE

I cut down the LED's and they fit and function perfectly fine still. I just need to grab my dremel tomorrow to cut some steel in the case for the 3mm LED's to fit correctly.

Video and photos soon once it is all automated!

 

UPDATE

Just doing some tests and wiring. Will provide images and a new video soon...

 

Did you ever finish?

 

yeah, any updates haunted?