PSX DTL-H2000 HELP!! :-(

Are you 100% about this? If so, I will ask Jackhead and Cyberghost to take some photos for me.

Maybe we can try changing the IO address from the Sony standard to something else. Any particular number you think would be best for the dip switches??

 

Straight from the manual:
"If the DTL-H2000 is not connected to the DTL-H2010 (CD-ROM drive, sold seperately) or the
Psy-Q PSX04 (CD emulator), the SPU may not reset. In order to insure proper functioning,
please attach the included SPU attachment to the DTL-H2010 connector."

Have you tried psxcons.exe in pure dos mode without loading dexbios?
Moving the boards to the ISA slots at the bottom?

 

Hmm... That sucks. I will need to make my own replacement then by linking single and double jumpers (depending on the configuration).
But, it means that the boards are not dead! YAY!!!!

 

Yes. I have.

FATIGUE CD-ROM: c:\ps\psx\bin\psxcons
<-[32;1mpsxcons -- PlayStation debug system console program
$date: 1996/04/30 10:40:23 $
type <-[7m F1 <-[0;32;1m ----> display help
when hung up try type <-[7mctrl+BREAK<-[0m
I/O addr = 0x1340, IRQ=10(vect=0x0072,8259=a0)
can't connect to DTL-H2000

 

What motherboard is this trying to be used with exactly? I recall the 440 chipset line rather well but haven't seen a specific model anywhere.

While I wouldn't say it is an absolute it might be worth trying to get it working on an older chipset. By all means the 440 line should work but I've played with enough ISA hardware to know how finicky some stuff can be.

 

The DTL-H2500 required the driver to either be installed correctly to boot at all, or required the driver to be loaded each time the board was used for the dtl board to boot. However, as I said before, all 3 of my DTL-H2000 turned on and showed the colorful bars as soon as the computer is turned on, even before the computer begins to boot anything at all. The H2000 boards were recognized by the sn diagnostics (don't remember what it was called, its a tool that checks your development software and hardware to see if its ready to use or not) I posted a picture of this in another thread but that pic was of the H2500.

 

I have a much much older board. This one in particular:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motherboard...Rev-2-11-Pentium-/350087169444#ht_1138wt_1163

I didn't want to use such a board because it is a lot older. I need to get an older power suply that has the power connectors before MOLEX (I forgot what they were called). Also need to thet that old RAM (also forgot what it was called) and an old keyboard adaptor to PS2 style. Also may need some headers for the COM and LPT, as well as a Socket 7 CPU.

I may just try and find ANOTHER board... Preferably a Gigabyte that I had that has a good slot 1 socket.
However, it is either the motherboard OR the DTL-H2000.

At the moment, I am thinking it is the H2000.

 

Do all 3x of your H2000 have the blue terminating header on the CD-ROM expansion slot? You can see it next to the ISA slot plugged in.
http://www.assemblergames.com/forum...H2000-HELP!!-(&p=570634&viewfull=1#post570634

 

If you're talking about the connector inside the cd-rom port in the picture on page 3, then no. In that picture it looks like someone just cut off the cd-rom cable, leaving the connector in there. Mine came with the actual intact cable, though I didn't use it during testing.

 

Damn. The DTL-H2000 must be broken, or my motherboard's ISA slots are broken.

Only thing I can do, is try another motherboard I guess.
If that does not work, then the boards are dead :sorrow:

I have no idea on where to begin to start repairing them. I will have to just go around testing components. Capacitors first, diodes, transistors, resistors... What a nightmare

 

I'm hoping it's the motherboard! This really sucks man.

Like I mentioned if you're in need of an old Motherboard I have one

 

Wow. Thank you. Does it have 2x ISA slots and a slot 1 for the CPU?

 

Not sure, I'd have to dig it out if I can find it :/

 

Okay I was doing some testing on the board.

I found a voltage regulator that caught my eye.
Sony had put clear heatshrink tubing on it. It was all burnt, black and melted, which made me believe the components under it (resistors) would be bad.
They were not however.

I will test the voltage regulator to see if it is working correctly.

I will do more tests on other components to see what I can find.

 

More news.

I managed to get one of my older motherboard to work PERFECTLY! I re-flowed the slot 1 on all of the though holes to the other side, with some flux and a heatgun.
I plugged the DTL-H2000 in and... it still didn't give me the nice coloured bars. So, the H2000 is in fact, faulty.

I then began work on it, and re-soldered the GPU (as well as many many other joints on the other chips) on the board using the drag soldering method. All the pins are now nice and shiny, to eliminate the cause of a cold joint.
It still did not work :'(


Some things I noticed were, that the board would give me constant horizontal lines. I plugged it into another TV I had (composite of course) and adjusted the V-Hold so stop that. Now I have a steady black picture. It is giving me a sync which I guess is good, but it always did this from the first test.
Even if I change it from NTSC to PAL, it does the same thing.

So it must be something more low level. By that I mean, one of the other chips that has nothing to do with the PlayStation side.


!
Another thing I noticed, was the screen (the TV flickers. Not the PC monitor) will flicker when ever the CD-ROM drive acts busy (light blinks). It is NOT plugged into the motherboard over an ATA cable. It is only plugged into the power.



I honesty, have no idea what is wrong with the damn thing.

I am frustrated and sad at the same time, because you can see I have put a hell of a lot of effort to try and get them working.

 

I know it's annoying when you've tried nearly everything you can think of with no success, pretty sure we can all relate to that. Or maybe not APE or Bad, those guys are insane lol. So without hacking it constantly leave it for a few days, and come back to it.

When you bought it, did the person say it worked?

 

He said he stood by it as working, but untested.


More testing:
Voltage regulator is giving me +4.70 volts on the leg with the diode (I dont know what the pins are because I cant find the datasheet),
+3.98 volts on the center pin, and
+4.02 volts on the direct opposite side of the piggy-backed diode.

But fuck, does it get hot. I burnt myself by touching it to see if it was, overheating. It should be sinked' if it burnt me! Silly Sony...

I dont know if the +4.7 volts should be +5.0, but it should be okay and the regulator is working fine.

 

Nope, theres no way a linear regulator can produce 4.7V when it only has 4V on the other 2 terminals. You're either looking at the wrong side, or this isn't a regulator.

Part number?

 

Hmm, odd :/. Hopefully it's not dead, it was a great buy!!

 

Yeah that surprised me too, and it is getting really hot.
I think I checked it wrong, because I clipped the negative on my multimeter to ground (pc chassis, DTL-H2000's bracket, etc).

Part number: B596

What I will do next is, replace every, single capacitor with new ones. I do not have a capacitor tester, and I would rather replace all of them anyway.