SNES vertical bar: Quick and easy fix.

I just found that out by chance when I was experimenting on the AD adapter and was trying to reduce audio noise.

Seems Tmee has already devised a fix with a bunch of both ceramic and electrolytic caps at several spots under the motherboard.

I do not know how well it worked in his case but simply using two capacitors at easy locations I removed over 85% of the vertical bar.
It went from something I could not unsee to something I barely notice.

I used 470 uf caps but smaller ones might just do. Using bigger caps did not seem to have any additional impact.

I put one on the regulator output and one on the Video Encoder +Vcc.
Negative end of both caps goes to ground.
You do not even need to remove the motherboard to do it.

*this is a temporary experimental install:


I took picture of the difference. ( sorry if the pictures are bad, I do not know how to take good pics of a CRT. )
On this specific SNES the verical bar is double thin bar + a darker band in between.

Before:


After:

 

Could you edit the pics to show where the band is because I have a hard time seeing anything.

Edit: Never mind I just saw it right in the middle of the screen, noticeable in the lower black part .

 

Excellent, I might give this a go. It's annoying having that black vertical bar following Ness around in EarthBound!
Thanks for the tips!

 

I have this problem with my component modded snes when hooked up to a flat screen.I will try this mod out!

 

I am so close to checking this out. One problem... I can't stop playing EarthBound! Approaching the desert as well... en route to Fourside!

 

interesting, thanks for sharing
my solutions was to get a 1CHIP snes, haven't seen the bar on this one

 

I have a 1-chip-03 and it does not have the bar.
However I feel like the 1-chip has drier sound. I prefer the audio of the older SNES.

This being said one of my near future project is doind a sound comparison recording round of all my SNES revisions.

Btw, if you guys try this Capacitor fix, let us know how it worked for you!

 

I'll be sure to, first thing tomorrow - I've found the courage to save and shut down the SNES!

I've only got two of the older models, SNSP-CPU-01 and SNSP-CPU-02, with S-ENC and S-ENC A respectively.
I'll give it a spin on the SNSP-CPU-02 / S-ENC A which is what I've been playing with today - at the very least I know my SuperCIC is working well!

 

Well gave it a go since I don't feel like sleeping just yet. Mysteries are here to be solved right?
I only had some 220uF 16V capacitors on hand, but they seem to have done the job.
Wired one to the output and ground (negative pin) of the 7805 voltage regulator and well... look at the pictures below.
Then wired one to the S-ENC A (rebadged BA6592F as I found out while looking for a datasheet).
Test game is, of course, EarthBound!

Nintendo Logo
Stock
220uF on the 7805
220uF on the 7805 and S-ENC A

APE Logo
Stock
220uF on the 7805
220uF on the 7805 and S-ENC A

HALKEN Logo (... HAL! The Kirby people!)
Stock
220uF on the 7805
220uF on the 7805 and S-ENC A

EarthBound Title Screen
Stock
220uF on the 7805
220uF on the 7805 and S-ENC A

I am impressed! Thanks for bringing this one to my attention
I mean I should be using my XRGB-mini... but I am on the wrong TV at the moment
Pictures of the actual work done - managed to get the capacitor installed in possibly the only way that prevents the main board going back into the case... ;D
At least we can laugh about it

7805 with capacitor added
S-ENC A with capacitor added
Datasheet pinout for the S-ENC A / BA6592F

And if Google ever changes their linkage here is the album - they'll be there somewhere!
I've had a good look up close of it and I am having a hard time seeing the bar at all! Thank you again!

 

Thanks alot for the feedback mate! Glad it worked for you too!
Seems 220 is enough uf? I had nothing between 470 and 100. Guess I may give 100 a try. The smallest they are the best it is. Too much capacitance on the 5v rail can sometimes glitch a console when you cold boot it because big caps will suck up all the juice when they charge. And then you have to press reset for it to boot correctly. My AD adapter is sensitive to this.

Your pictures are a better demo of before and after than mines, mind I share them around? I will give you credits for the pics of course. The bar is still faintly visible but i find it incredibly hard to see now.

 

I can give some smaller values a try to see if they have any effect. I've only got one 47uF and a handful of 10uFs, everything else is far smaller.
Share the photos around, that's why they are here. Don't worry yourself too much about crediting - it's all public domain!

 

Holy! Just added this to my blog

I'll make a video of the entire simple process.

By the way, was the buzz on audio ever fixed?

 

The Audio buzz was when playing games on the AD adapter and yes It was fixes but not through this method

See here:
http://www.assemblergames.com/forum...und-fixes-for-the-Tototek-GBA-SNES-AD-Adapter

 

220uF on the video encoder and voltage regulator have done the trick for me.
Then I put the cartridge in backward and it wiped my saves for EarthBound... Arrrrrrrrggghhhh me mateys!



Make sure you turn your brightness and contrast to full when testing as it REALLY brings that band out in force.
Strangely I couldn't get it to happen on one of my TVs though... At least it works on the bedroom one!
Lazy gaming, ohhhhhh yeah! Thanks again!

 

Hey I just replaced my 470 uf caps in my CPU-GPM-02 by 220 uf@10v and It works just as well, just like for you.

Im gonna put this console back together and start working on an older SHVC-CPU-01 now. Someone on NintendoAge tried the fix on such a console with 220uf and says it does not work.
It is possible that this fix is not universal or that the Cap values needed are different across various motherboard revisions.

 

Oh wow, SHVC-CPU-01 are the really old ones with the separate sound module. I don't have one of those!
I do have a SNSP-CPU-01, but it seems a little bit different. When I do get around to digging it out I'll let you know the results!

 

i've not noticed a bar on my SNSP-CPU-01 will have to have a closer look

 

The bar is not always noticeable. It depends on the game mostly, but also on the SNES model and the TV and its settings. I know I can see it on my SNSP-CPU-01 but it is not as bad as some other SNES revisions.
The most notorious place to witness the BAR is during Final Fantasy III ( VI ) intro when the lightnings are flashing on a cloudy sky.

Another place that I know of the bar to be annoying is in Donkey Kong country in the mine/cave levels.

 

You get it a bit on EarthBound as sometimes you can see black around the borders (if entering a small house for example - cool game design or what?).
Can't say I've given FF III a go on the old SNES, wait three is actually six?

Edit: Actually now that you mention it I remember seeing it on Donkey Kong Country 3 - Dixie Kong's Double Trouble.
And I did go in search of suitable S-ENC replacements as a place to start at, found something over at Digital Press.
Glad it's gone for now at any rate

 

Ooooooh! Nice find!! My Super Famicom has the bar, I'll have to try this out and fix it! Can we please get some clear photos of the caps install locations? I can't quite see where you've got them soldered to.

The strongest caps I have are 220u, you've tested this value already and found it works, but these are my last 2x 220us! Can I get away with a lower value or should I not risk it and just use 220u?