700x PS1 Toslink Success

I have 2 ps1 models, one is PAL SCPH-5502 PU-18 and PAL SCPH-7502 PU-22.

In good condition is the 5502 model, anyone can give some help on solder points to make the TOSLINK for it?

 

Hi csdesign,

This is my first post following on from citrus300psi's great work I picked up a SCPH-5552 yesterday at a local video game store as around Christmas time found this great thread and audio mod. I'd ordered a couple of PCBS and all the parts and managed to get it all for yesterday. I've started to solder the wires in for this mod today and am hoping to finish and test over the next few days, i've taken quite a few photos and would hope to be able to upload a guide on how i modded this PS1.

I'd like to say a big thank you to citrus300psi for making the board available through OSH and also his commitment to making some really cool designs to help out the retro gaming community

 

Looks really good
How well do those sockets glue to the inside on the housing? (to hide the screw)

What benefit does digital audio have over the stock one?

 

Just a quick one to let you know my PS1 is reassembled and the mod worked FIRST TIME! Initial results are crystal clear and really please more testing and happy gaming to come!!

 

Welcome to Assembler
How do you find the points of the signals of the ps1 to toslink chips?

 

The benefit is that you can bypass the PS1 DAC (digital to analog converter) and keep the signal digital for your amplifier to do the conversion.

So think of it like this, if the DAC in your amplifier is better than the one in your source, you should connect it digitally. If the DAC in the source is better you should connect it with analog so the amplifier does no conversion.

In case of the PS1, there are some models that have unusually good DACs inside for a gaming console, which is why some people swear to the PS1 as a great CD-player. Having used one myself for years I can verify that it does indeed sound really nice, but you can find many newer CD-players that does a better job, as long as you don't buy the cheapest models.

 

https://flic.kr/s/aHsm9osaPJ I've uploaded a lot of pictures here to help you on how it worked. the key is the pinout of the AK4309AVM. If you blow up the picture of the motherboard you can see i've colour coded the pins to some solder points slightly lower down. I have more pictures/can give a proper explanation if needed.

 

Thankyou very much.. I'm such an idiot, after go for the datasheet of the AK4309 AVM it's all there. Well lets go for the parts (board and IC) and let's make this..

Nice pics David

 

Well all parts buyed, lets wait to do this

 

i ordered myself the stuff to pull this out, and planning to put the toslink to an old 1003 i have sitting around,
question is, does someone have connection points for the PU-8 mobo already or should i just get on to find them myself ?
(i'd rather not reinvent the wheel )
I'd rather not directly solder to the legs of the AK4309AVM, since it's placement on the PU-8 is rather inconvenient for soldering (the chip is surrounded by caps which makes accessing the legs pretty annoying with a soldering iron.)

and before anyone asks why am i putting optical to the "audiophile" model, it's because of interference noise i have on my setup (also, because why not!)

last, thanks for all the involved parties that made this happen. It's a pretty neat little mod.

 

As in SCPH-1003? You actually have one? I always thought they were mythical. The oldest Asia market unit I've ever seen was a SCPH-5003

 

the 1002 is a launch unit here in Finland, I doubt anythign lower ever came here. I have a thread about this particular one already here: https://assemblergames.com/threads/lets-rebuild-a-ps1.44855/
also my apologies, it's actually 1002, not 1003
this one is my first ps1 and has it's sentimental value for me, so i go to all kinds of ridiculous lengths to keep it in good shape.

i will actually do the mod to 2 units though.
since my 1002 is painted black, i did build a counterpart for it, which is white (and NTSC, instead of PAL like my 1002)

 

Ah, OK that makes sense - the units with a '3' on the end of the part number are Asia market systems that boot NTSC:J discs but generally have English boot ROMs and a special power supply that can run from either 120V or 220V - I've heard it alleged that a SCPH-1003 existed, but I've never actually seen one.

 

ah yes. Sorry for the confusion, I never manage to remember the numbers quite right ^^;

either way, back on track on the topic, I'll start poking at the board with multimeter later on today and see what I can come up for the pinouts.
Since I'm pretty terrible at this kinda stuff though, Im still open up for a premade pinout if someone has it

I already have everything on the way aside the boards themselves, so shouldn't take too long for the stuff to actually arrive here. (boards shouldn't take that long either, I ordered them 2 days ago.)
edit2: looks like I derped and ordered TOTX141L's (3.3V) by mistake.... (wanted a connector with the dust flap on it.) so had to scrap that and order some proper ones to fit the design.
Grabbed some TOTX179L's instead, which should do the job. More waiting xD

edit:
i poked the board a little with multimeter and based on David's pinout for the AK4309AVM from few posts above, i traced the connections down as follows:
(this is NTSC-US SCPH-1001 / PU-8 board.)

the connections for this board are on the B-side (bottom) instead of on A side like it apparently is on the other board types.
picture is not mine, I tried to take a photo of my own board but my phone camera disagrees so i resorted into googling a picture of the board.

i will test this out as soon as i get the boards and components delivered and confirm if it works or not

in the meantime:

 

finally got all the stuff delivered, and started tinkering with it, here's the implementation so far (not tested yet, unfinisted)

 

Nice work. I did a 1001, about a mouth ago, set it up using mini toslink.

 

that mini looks nice

i noticed though that your connection points for the board differ from mine..... i need to get this thing tested, maybe i messed up tracing the connections.
I'll let you know once i put it together.

edit: i gave it a spin while things are in pieces and it does work but it might be dropping a little, need to check that. Too long cables maybe ?

edit2: shortened the +5V, GND and the data lines a little, also changed the connection points to match yours, now it's perfect, no dropping.

looks like i pulled my connection points from behind the resistors on the line...
i do recall poking at it with multimeter but didnt get continuity from there, i guess i'll have to clean my multimeter xD

TL;DR: all done, i'll take a pic or 2 once im done with the assembly, need to do a new backplate since there's a new hole now (again)

 

all done and tested, it's... beautiful~
can't thank you enough for creating this mod!

 

That is one beefy toslink cable! Never gonna break in a million years

 

the cable is actually the same kind than the one citrus3000psi has on his above post, I dunno why the picture made it look so massive.

but yeah, if you're gonna do something, might aswell be completely overkill about it, that's my motto