Can this saturn be saved ?

what is under that little piece of duct tape in your first picture?

 

For a quick test, you can just remove it and see if the console powers up. It's just there to absorb supply transients. And yes, the fact that it's blown up makes it seem very likely that the console was connected to 220. I've seen that lots of times, since HK uses 220V and many of the consoles are imported 100V Japanese units.

 

Nothing ! The tape was there with no function.

 

I was going to desolder it and replace it together with a new fuse.
Is it ok to desolder it and power on ? Isn't this a part that takes a blow after the fuse ?

 

It's a surge suppressor, so as long as there aren't any big mains spikes while you are testing, it shouldn't cause a problem. I would certainly replace it if you intend to run the unit for an extended period of time. The reason it blew up in the first place was because it saw the 220 as being a 100% overvoltage and started to pull a lot of current.

 

Ok thanks i'll order some stuff from ebay and post in a couple of days.

 

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I am ordering a varistor 14d221k

Used this movie

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzzR4CZbfiY&list=HL1397830625

 

It's probably the most common part after the fuse. I use the Panasonic ERZV14D201 - but that's only because I have a box of them and they are rated for 130VAC withstand.

Another part that's worth checking is the input filter cap (typically 100uF or 68uF, 200V) - even in the short period of time it takes for the fuse to blow, it can have got very hot or even vented. I've also seen a few of them that blew up the rectifier or the switching FET, but this is pretty unusual.

 

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You want to replace it with one that has an operating voltage that's slightly higher than the maximum you will ever expect to see. So for a nominal 120V supply like the one in the US, you really want at least 120V+10%, so 132V. If you use one that is rated for the nominal line voltage, then it might pull significant current if the line voltage is a bit high. So 110V is probably too low - in fact, 130V is probably a bit low for US stuff, but works fine with 110V stepdowns.

Easiest check for a bad cap if you don't have anything to test it with is by looking for 100Hz (or 120Hz) interference on the audio and video outputs - if you see it, and changing the cap fixes it, then the cap was bad - if you get similar interference but at 50 or 60Hz, then it's most likely that one of the diodes in the bridge has failed open circuit.

IF you have a scope, you could also just look at the DC outputs for the power supply and look for low frequency ripple. If you have a scope, an isolation transformer and a disregard for personal safety you could also directly monitor the voltage across the HV cap - but this is only recommended if you are familiar with working with circuits that are directly connected to the line.

 

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That will tell you if it's completely dead or not - if you short out the cap and then connect the meter across it on ohms, the resistance reading will start low, and then increase -the period of time it takes is proportional to the size of the cap, but also dependent on the amount of current your meter uses, so really only useful for relative tests.

 

Update

I removed the varistor.







I don't have the balls to turn the saturn on.
Ordering new varistor(s).
These will do ?

http://www.ebay.nl/itm/360141005620?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

Electrically, that looks fine - mechanically, it seems to be quite a bit bigger than the original, so you might want to check the clearance.

The original part seems to be ERZV05D221 from the Panasonic ZNR series:

http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/AWA0000/AWA0000CE2.pdf

So also rated for 140VAC - but only 800A rather than 4500A

Edit: Note that the original part may not be available any more because it doesn't seem to be RoHS

 

Ok
So that is no good.
Any suggestions from your part for buying varistors for USA saturn ? European ebay seller prefered .

 

You can use it with no problems, as long as it will fit. Having a higher peak current rating is not a bad thing.

I can't find an exact replacement on ebay, but digikey have the exact original part:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ERZ-V05D221/P7182-ND/137246

 

Will i am waiting on parts i saw 1.6 A 250 V printed on the psu . Is it a pal psu ? And what for test can i do with my multimeter.

 

EDIT it is model :35m10U yamaha corp

 

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