Custom Turbo Everdrive Shell

Are you asking about blue or red from Shapeway? From I could tell no one ever ordered those color. Most people tend to go with white. You can dye it with vinyl die or fabric dye to get other color.

 

Yeah, I guess I'll buy white and dye it. Orange to match the writing/lines on the Turbo would look nice.

 

Mine's on the truck for delivery this morning, thanks again Buffalo. If I dye or paint mine something funky I'll be sure to post pics.

 

Man that's great job there nice i like the see though one you done.

 

If I have access to my own 3D printer, would you consider sharing your CAD file so that we can make our own, and maybe make a few changes to the design too?

 

Do you live in the US of A?
If you plan on reselling your modified design, and he is ok with that, it would save Americans some $ on shipping, at least.

 

I am in the USA.
However, I don't have a 3D Printer of my own yet.
One of my good friends has one though, he lives 500 miles away but he is willing to help me make at least one!
Maybe if it goes well I can convince him to make a bunch and send them to me so I can distribute them

 

A guy by the name of jelloslug, over at the PCEngineFX.com forums, is working on making injection-molded HuCard Trays.
You might want to ask him if he'd be open/willing/able to add a cavity to his mold, for your new Custom Turbo Everdrive Shell design, once you have perfected it.

Here is a link to the thread where he talks about his HuCard Trays:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=13611.0

If he can't, or won't, then I would be more than happy to,
when I start making Injection-Molded SegaCard Cases, in the future.

 

I think you are over estimating how many of these actually have sold. I doubt it has been very many. Honestly to take this specific cart shell into consideration IMO would be adding something that barely anyone would ever need. Probably very few people have purchased this shell and probably even fewer would buy a case to put it in. Basically what I am saying is my guess is that these cases or trays will be made in the thousands. You would be adding a special consideration for something that probably hasn't even sold 50 shells. Obviously you can do what you want, but seems like extra work for something that is not in demand and probably not long after you got all your cases you will be wondering why you bothered. Turbo EverDrive isn't a huge seller. Its an okay seller, but really nothing like the SNES, N64, and Genesis carts. This is just my opinion of course.

 

That's why i thought it would be more feasible to just release a CAD file for the design since the only people that care about it are probably willing to make the cases themselves.

I don't suppose you're willing to share any secrets about how the Deluxe edition of the Turbo Everdrive is put together?

 

I'm not going to start making SegaCard Cases, until sometime next year.



The demand for the SegaCard case, itself, isn't that high, either.
That's why I'm waiting until I've already made the top sellers, before diving into this Case Line.

 

In the future I may consider providing a simplified version for home 3D printing. My models were not designed for extruded plastic printing so area such as the SD slot opening and some clearance area underneath will not come out right. Also, STL files used for 3D printing isn't really that useful for making changes. They are like more like JPG to PSD on Photoshop. My actual 3D model is parametric using solid modeling program that not a lot of people have access to.

 

While it doesn't hurt to ask, most manufacturing people will discourage you from adding unrelated product to same mold. Reasons are: You want multiple cavities of the same part on the same mold to increase productivity and yield per cycle; a different part with different wall thickness affects the gating and potentially the cooling of the system. Also, this affect yields. Say imagine having a mold with 1 cavity of the tray and 1 cavity of the shell. If jelloslug want to order 1000 tray from the injection molder, he would also absorb the cost for the 1000 shell. What if the demand for the shell is only 500? Also, if one cavity is producing bad part, in order to make up the missing quantities, extra pieces of the other part will be made. Who will pay for that? These are thing that need to be considered.

Also, my CAD file isn't injection molding ready. It was designed mainly around sintered nylon criteria. The model does not have any draft or uniform wall thickness for injection plastic. It's really one thing to machine or 3D print the part and another to actually be able to mold the part.

 

As a final product, 3D printing may not be ideal. However, it's a good tool for resin casting. I've been tinkering with it for a while. It's not perfect, but I'm pretty please with the surface finish. This is a good indicator on how an inject molded part might look like.

 

I meant to post this a long time ago, but here is my Turbo Everdrive with this shell and a label I made.

 

I'm interested in ordering one of these shells, but I'm not sure which version to get. I would prefer the one with the screws, but am concerned about them sticking out from the bottom of the TED. The recommended screw is the countersunk ones, which would require me to countersink the PCB. Since I don't have a drill press, this is not a viable option. I was looking around at some "Wafer Head" type screws, and found one with these specifications.

Average Overall Length: 4.88mm
Average Head Width: 4.47mm
Average Head Thickness: 0.74
Thread Pitch: 0.40

Now, what I'm concerned about is the head thickness (0.74mm.) With this thickness will I still be able to insert the TED into my TurboGFX without the screws hitting the plastic? If not I might end up going with the version with the posts.

Thanks

 

The board will insert into the console with a little bit of screw head sticking out. It will scrape the console if you are not careful so it's not ideal. As for counter sinking the board, I don't recommend using a drill press, it's too aggressive. I used a bead reamer I purchased from my local craft store. It doesn't take too much effort to file/ream PCB. Using a manual tool gives you more control so you don't over do it and damage the surrounding traces. Just take your time. The head width of the screw you picked is too large if you are also going to counter sink. You need something like 3mm. I counter sunk my board with a diameter of roughly 3.5mm. Anything more will cut into some of the via/trace. See the bottom two holes on my picture.

 

OK, so I think I found the bead reamer set that you have on Amazon, this look about right?

http://www.amazon.com/4-Piece-Bead-Reamer-Set/dp/B001RJF846/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1367544413

As far as the screw I will be using, I found one with an Outer Diameter of 3.8mm. I am giving you a link to the CAD file, do you think this would be good for this application?

http://i.imgur.com/TPDXXkS.gif

Thanks for the help!

 

That reamer set should be fine. It look like they are the same thing just in another package/branding. It's interesting that every review says the handle falls apart in few use. I haven't experience this, but then again I've only used it on PCB, not on beads...
I suggest you tried it first on an unwanted PCB to get a feel first. It really doesn't take much effort to grind the board.

As for the screw, it's borderline. It really depend on how well you can counter sink the board. I've measured my board again, if I use that screw size, the head will rest right next to the via barely. It's probably going to be a trial and error type of work.

 

Alright, I ordered the bead reamer. I am going to order the TED shell with the mounting holes. Do you have a link to the screws that you ordered? The ones that I linked are the closest I can get to what you described, I will use those if necessary but would prefer to get the ones that you have.