My screws were salvaged from old electronics (I think they were from video camera). Try looking for small electronics that you don't mind tearing apart. Thriftstore perhaps. I'm sorry I can't be more specific as it's a pain to source metric sized micro screws.
No worries, I'll grab those ones and take it from there. I just ordered everything today so it's going to be a couple of weeks before I can report back. Thanks for the help.
My shell should be coming in on Monday. I was wondering if you or BuffaloWing had exact dimensions of the spot the label gets affixed to. I am going to have to bring the file to Kinkos so they will need to know the size the label needs to be printed at. Thanks
I am still interested in buying like 10-15 of these from anyone with a 3D printer who is willing to make them for me! Please just send me a PM!
Where do I buy this? Can anyone else offer 3D print service? What file do I need to take if there is a company that can print locally?
Fyi DS cases would be perfect for holdimg the shell, here is a mock-up of a cover I made (watermark on bottom). Here is a shot of the inside and the cover I made. I still need to paint and add label. Would love to get the 3D print version tho. And here it is in action:
I finally got the label printed and installed on the cover. Everything worked well. If anyone wants the same screw I used (2mm x 5mm countersunk) I have a bunch of them left over. If you're in the US pm me and I'll mail some over. Thanks for all the help.
Just a heads up, I took the screws out of an old sony discman I had, and they fit like a glove. Thanks for the design, buffalowing. If I countersink the PCB, what are the odds I'll break it? I'm not the steadiest of hands... but on the other hand, I don't want to bend it because the screws are sticking out too much, either. Right now, I have it held on by just 1 screw, the one closest to the front of the pc engine. It's not bending really, but it's not 100% secure either...
If you use the bead reamer shown in post #97 in this thread you won't have a problem. It's the same one I used, I posted a link to Amazon of that exact set. You just need to go slow and steady, and make sure you don't hit any of the traces, and you'll be fine.
The bead reamer is really the safest way to go about it. Hold it like a jeweler's screw driver with your index finger on the tip and just take your time grinding away the PCB. Just be mindful of the surrounding traces as you get closer. Check the fit with your screw frequently. Since it's not machine operated, the chance of over doing it is minimal unless you are totally oblivious. Test it out on a junk PCB if you can to get a feel. I know it's another item to buy, but the reamer is quite cheap and it might come in handy for other project in the future.
The ones I'm using are practically flush. I tried taking a picture of the side profile and you can't notice them sticking out, you can only tell when you run your finger directly over the head of one of them. Did you get those by the way? I sent them off a week or two ago.
It depends on the angle of the countersunk screw and reamer used. When they don't match, you may need to ream deeper. Depending on the diameter of the screw head, this may not be feasible if you are close to the trace.
Wow these are looking incredible! Not sure if I missed it anywhere in this post, but do these covers fit in the Turbo Duo? and is the T-Duos Hucard lid closeable still? This is some amazing work!! I want one
I don't own a Duo so I can't say whether the lid will close or not. Maybe someone who owns one can chime in. By the way, the combined thickness of the shell plus the PCB is 0.31in (7.92mm) total.