It's really hard to get them cheap. I spend half day yesterday to check all of my sources for these and everywhere it was out of stock and no longer in production. 582 SCART connectors is enough to build ~70 switches so I will not have any shortage problem for a long time. Anyway I already invested too much to this project to stop now
My sync issue was caused by the aftermarket power supply for the xrgb-mini. I had bought a 5V 3A US adapter for it just to be safe, but I am guessing now its not really 3A? Switching to the original power supply has fixed the SNES and N64 c-sync issue I was having as well as the need for the sync stripper with the Duo-R. Everything is working perfectly now.
Weird that it was the cause. But I suppose that makes sense since I've been running on the original stock adapter since I got my XRGB mini.
Yeah it is odd. I just thought I would give if a try since it was about the only thing left. Just thought of it as I had just bought a genesis power supply from china that did not have enough current to power the system. Said it was 1a but would only light thd led and not output any sound or video. Possibly the extra cabling when the switch was added was just enough to make those sync signals not work with that power supply.
I'm sorry about the confusing addition to the page. I've been pretty busy lately and keep meaning to re-do the entire page with new pictures (same with the N64 page). Hopefully I'll have some time in the coming weeks. I was originally wiring to the hole in the motherboard and never had any issues...but I was getting emails from people who said it wasn't working for them with certain displays, but working with others. I couldn't figure out what was going on until Bad_Ad84 emailed me to point out that spot on the motherboard is unprocessed sync, which is why some people have issues. The "new" location is the sync OUTPUT pin of the S-RGB A chip (pin 18). To make things even more confusing, you'll sometimes hear people say they're having sync issues when pulling it from the chip. In this case, they're usually getting it from the csync INPUT of the chip (pin 7), which is the same unprocessed sync from the spot on the motherboard. I hope this clears things up a bit.
I'm selling these, please check here: http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?52513-gscartsw-automatic-8-1-SCART-RGB-switch
I've just received the switch and I'v run some tests. This is a beautiful piece of work, and work perfectly with all my systems! First, here is some pictures of my setting: As you can see I'm using all 8 slots. Master System: OK SFC: OK NES: OK MD+MCD+32X: OK Saturn: OK Dreamcast: OK Multimega: OK PCEngine: OK At first I had a sound buzz on almost all systems, but it turned out that it was a small short circuits between the Scart from the switch and the Framemeister. None of the systems needs the extra 9v, except the Dreamcast for some reason (I'm using Hanzo+UMSA). But I suspect that it's because of the SCART I'm using from the UMSA to the switch. Also, it seems that the systems that used to require the sync stripper (Multimega, MD and Saturn) don't need it anymore. It doesn't seem to change anything when I switch it on or off, it's working anyways. The one thing that's weird is the Multimega didn't work on slot 8, when I moved it to slot 7 it worked perfectly. Now the DC is on slot 8 and work so no problems, just strange. Now some questions: -I'm interested in using only a mini din-->mini din, to avoid the switch-->mini din-->scart-->scart-->mini din-->framemeister set up. But then I won't have the 9v external power, isn't it? Not a problem if I find a solution for the Dreamcast. -Also, how can I solder the mini din cable to avoid frying the framemeister? -Right now I'm using a euro scart adapter to the mini, that I bought from retrogamecable. But what if I use one with sync stripper? What happens if I turn on the sync stripper on the switch, can having 2x LM1881N activated at the same time fry the framemeister? I'll make some more tests in the future, but so far it's the best switch I've ever seen. And the best looking too Good job, and thanks again!
Nice setup you've got there! I think my Hanzo/UMSA unit provided enough power for the switch, so most likely it's cable. Strange, Multimega should require sync stripper from what I know. At least all my SMD2/Genesis need it. Are you sure that you don't have lm1881 integrated to your SCART->Framemeister? It could be new SCART sockets. I had this here several times, just reinsert few times to break it in. Also sometimes my framemeister isn't picking signal at once. Yeah, you are right. Unfortunately I haven't added DC jack to PCB, will be fixed for next batch. Use this pinout: http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:micomsoft_xrgb-mini_framemeister You have two options: 1. don't connect SCART_FB pin in cable 2. unsolder R2 solder bridge from the switch If you really-really want to use MiniDIN->MiniDIN and you don't care how it looks you can solder power jack cable directly to switch. You can use such setup if you want, but if you will turn on both of them simultaneously for some consoles it may not work properly. No, you will not fry anything. Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
I know it's strange, but I've double checked and my multimega is working with and without sync stripper... I actually have both SCART->Framemeister with LM1881 and without, and the one I currently use is without. But it might be the multimega-scart cable I'm using, it's from retrogamecable and might have enhance signal. Or the fact that I modded the multimega. Don't know, but it works. Regarding the DC jack to PCB, it might ruin the design of the switch in my opinion. I like that there is only a mini din out, and the scarts, and nothing else. But if you find a way to incorporate it nicely then it cannot harm The only console having problems with sync stripper is the dreamcast. It doesn't work with sync stripper, the signal gets overloaded and scrambled. So with 2 sync strippers at the same time, this isn't pretty. Let me know when you get a new batch on the way, might be interested to buy a second one
I'd say in a month from now I should have some available. Should I put you in waiting list? (don't forget that these aren't JP21 )
I would be interested in this if there was an option for manual switching. Would it be difficult to add that feature? I'm not sure that all of my devices output a switching signal on pin 16, and if they didn't, they wouldn't work with this device, correct?
Newer version also analyze SCART pin8, just in case. It will not switch if your cables don't provide pin8 or pin16 voltage. Sorry, I don't plan to support manual switching.
I am quite new and noobish to this. I am using PAL consoles only, SO I have some questions regarding this topic. 1) Will this work with wii/gamecube/dreamcast (while supporting rgb) and n64 with snes (s-video and or standard a/v cables) while they are connected at the same time? 2) Is there anything specific I should know about these switches or things I should keep in mind when buying them? 3) Last but not least: will this work with other swithes, my setup is as follows since I play on 1ms hdmi monitor and want to record: consoles > scart switch > cvid bg 460 (scart/rgb to hdmi converter) > elgato HD capture card! Will I experience lag issues/input latency? I literally have searched everywhere in order to find out anything regarding this, but unfortunately I couldn't find a thing! I was hoping someone could answer these questions carefully! Thank you in advance! Oh and btw, I am interested in buying 1 of ur scart switches!
Yes, it will. I don't quite get what do you mean by "s-video and or standard a/v cables". Switch supports only SCART-RGB connection so as long as every console will be connected through SCART-RGB it'll work. You may need to use external power supply for my switch. Sometimes your SCART cables may not be correctly wired. Automatic switching relies on SCART pin 16, if it isn't routed - it will not be detected by the switch. I've checked daisy-chaining of several switches and connection through SCART->HDMI converter, no problems. Also I don't think you'll notice any latency with my switch. I still need to finish my FAQ on sale thread.
I've read the thread through... are you using scart pin 16 for power unless external power is used? It only has 1-3V to signal RGB mode, can anything be run from just 1.x V? Pin 8 should be better for power with it's 5-8V when signalling widescreen mode and 9.5-12V when signalling SD mode. I'm very interested in getting one of these, it will be nice to see the new version, looks like you added a LED there as well.
