Hey superg, It's me again InsomniaBro (I posted some questions regarding the switch a while ago), I'm still interested in the switch, yet I haven't heard when the JP version is coming out? I assume this one also works for people from europe right? Thnx in advance. P.S. Did u also put me on the list? Greetings, Insomnia
If a JPN version does get released please let me know what too. I really need a switch box solution for 5 ntsc-j RGB consoles
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Atari-Jagua...Games_Cables_and_Adaptors&hash=item3a883b945f I own this one and it doesn't route pin 8, only pin 16. Anyway it's very easy to modify it.
JP21 is planned. Technically it's just reroute of the SCART version. There will be two switch versions with same features, most likely configuration will be static: either all SCART or all JP21. Added you to the waiting list. Unfortunately I didn't start work on it yet, should happen somewhere next week after my basement will return to normal. Guys sorry for the inconvenience but I really don't have much space above ground to continue my work.
Yeah!! Great stuff. If it's of any use the systems that will be using J-21pin RGB are the Mega Drive, Super Famicom, Sega Saturn, Dreamcast and PC Engine Duo-R. They all use official cables apart from the Duo-R since that had to be RGB modded.
Owkay, then I think I misunderstood (as I am not that technical as most people here), I just need the normal version (8-way europe scart) then, since I play on PAL-consoles only. Thnx for adding me to the waiting list. I wish you the best of luck with making the scarts! I am also looking forward to hearing from you when they are done
Hello all, Question for those of you with RGB modded PC Engines who are using the 8 way splitter. What mod have you had done on the PC Engine? I have a white PC and a grey Core Grafx - both modded for RGB - and neither works correctly through the splitter to PVM.They both work directly to the SCART > BNC adapter, and both work on a consumer Sony CRT. Both PCEs have different mods. The Core Grafx has the mmmonkey transistor amp — http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/core-grafx-rgb-mod/ and the white PCE seems to have something on a chip (also has a region selector mod too) The Core gives a scrambled, lined picture, whilst the white PCE gives a dull and streaked picture. Any advice or tips gratefully accepted.
I don't have a RGB splitter but my RGB modded Duo-R works fine through the Framemeister XRGB-mini. Not sure what mod it is but I can show you a photo if that's of any use.
Yes please mate, all bits of info may help. I'll also get my Duo out tonight and try that, it's RGB modded, but not sure how.
Hi! I've bought a switch from you some time ago, a red one. As a follow up of my previous post: Now I've toyed a lot with it, and there doesn't seem to be any flaws at all, apart from maybe some uncertainty about which console works with LM switch or not, and some of the scarts had to be moved from one slot to the other so all 8 slots would work, don't know why but hey, everything's working well. I have one issue though, the scart to mini 8 pin seems to be damaged form day 1. At first it was only a small short circuit but now I have to press the scart against the other scart that goes to the mini everytime to avoid shortage (mostly sound is damaged, sometimes even picture). I've tested with several scart to framemeister adapter (I have 3), and same problem with all of them so the cable you provided is to blame. Plugged to an AC adapter or not, it doesn't matter the shortage is there no matter which console I'm using. And when I'm slightly touching it, or even moving it then the picture goes away with the sound in a big "BUZZZ". Tried to open the scart and see what the problem was but couldn't see a thing. Next, I tried to find a similar cable on internet (one that is powered with a mini 8 din on the other side), couldn't find one. Can you help me with this? Do you have one more cable like the one you gave me? That would be great. I see that the new batch is not with 8 pin but directly with scart output- very nice. I'm actually thinking about buying one more to add more consoles. Well let me know about the cable, or if you have a link where I can purchase a new one, thanks.
Yes, the cable is custom . From your explanations it looks like SCART male plug is defective / bad / etc. Technically viletim's NESRGB custom cable should be the same, but you just need to make sure it routes stereo audio. Also I remember I explained to you how to modify the switch not to output power to MiniDIN. Once you'll do this you can use MiniDIN to MiniDIN cable without any SCART connectors. There are plenty male to male MiniDIN cables on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...in+9+cable.TRS0&_nkw=minidin+9+cable&_sacat=0
Ok so you mean that I can buy a mini din to mini din cable and plug it directly from the switch to the framemeister and voila? But you didn't explain to me how to modify the switch to avoid outputing power, do I have to do that, and how do I do it? That would be a great solution, and actually none of my consoles need the 9v extra power. Thanks-
I know, sorry for the misunderstanding, what I meant is to just desold scart fb from both ends of the mini din would be enough? You said that if I didn't care about the look I could plug directly the 9v to the switch. But I don't really need power, actually. What happened if I just plug a mini din from the switch to the framemeister without performing any changes, will it fry? Sorry but I'm not that clever in electronics.. Edit: Ok so as far as I understand you're using pin 8 from scart to power the switch. but what is the extra 9v plug for, then? Hi Superg! I come back to you because I received a MiniDIN->MiniDIN cable, and I'm about to make the changes on the switch since the cable that came with it is broken, but I don't want to make any mistakes. Here is what you told me: "You have two options: 1. don't connect SCART_FB pin in cable 2. unsolder R2 solder bridge from the switch If you really-really want to use MiniDIN->MiniDIN and you don't care how it looks you can solder power jack cable directly to switch." If I do the option 1, do I still need to solder the power jack cable on the switch? What do you recommend me to do, what do you think is the easiest way- and yes I do care about the looks of the switch, it's too beautiful to be ruined Thanks!
The easiest is to desolder R2 bridge. And make sure that your cable directly connects each pin (pin 1 on one end should correspond to pin 1 on the other and so on for all the pins). Use a multimeter.
Thanks for your answer. Ok I'll do that. Hope everything will work the same after operation What is R2 for?
Ok thanks a lot Superg. Actually I've run some tests all day, and I came to the conclusion that doing that and therefore getting rid of the extra 9v was a bad idea... The Dreamcast, at least in my configuration, cannot work without the extra 9v. As a reminder I have a jap model with UMSA and Hanzo. And without the 9v the image gets a lot of interferences. I had to use the exact voltage to get rid of those, not enough volts and the Dream wouldn't work properly. Tried to switch cables, switch ACs, nothing would work except having exactly the right voltage (I use a PC engine AC adapter as the Megadrive one was not enough apparently) So I tried to fix the scart itself, and found a way for it to be connected in a way to avoid shortage as much as possible. Best solution so far. Btw I'll be interested in a second switch, a black one, as I'm running out of scart inputs. Can you put me on the list? Thx
