oh mod... then need to ask those guys who made it by the way, os recognize rom as game which use dsp?
My HD setup is 1080p on a 106" screen with HDMI + component. 256x224 looks horrible upscaled to 1080p even maintaining 4x3, and the best deinterlace+upscale processor adds either jerkiness (but no input lag) or input lag (but smooth and high frame rate) and at the end of the day it's still a large upscaled blocky image. I had a 37" 1080p LCD I used for a computer monitor that had s-video and component inputs. It also looked terrible with SNES/Genesis in all but the postage stamp size 1:1 mode. Another unrelated thing you can do is play FF7 on a PS2, watch how jerky the title screen credit are as they scroll by. Then see how smooth it is on a real PS1. 5000 pts on the roller coaster isn't happening on a PS2... especially if it's going through a HD set being processed, upscaled, and input lagged to death on TOP of the jerky PS2->PS1 GPU emulation. Emulators and HD upscaling of SD content suck if you are serious about retro gaming. If you are using a CRT as you said, it's not as big a deal for you, especially a RGB CRT. As long as you are running RGB on a CRT, that's all that matters. The differences between models then aren't quite as important. Though a Sony PVM or Nec XM will still be better than just a standard consumer TV. Just know that plasma/DLP/LCD/HD anything suck for retro gaming. My rule of thumb is that a console should support a minimum of native 480p over component to be played on any fixed pixel HD display. Though a proper 480p, 720p or 1080p to match your devices native framebuffer and HDMI with 1:1 pixel mapping is the way to go. I might pick up an old 852x480 panel for PS2/Dreamcast/Gamecube/etc Why Sony: Aperture grill (trinitron) > shadow mask = sharp square pixels and bright well defined scan lines, and no curving, warping or distortion in the vertical direction or corners due to the cylindrical vs spherical glass. Why PVM: Professional studio monitor with 100% perfect color calibration, ultra fine dot pitch, high resolution, and endless sync and input signal flexibility. External sync, sync on green, sync on composite, composite, s video, RGB, YPbPr, PVM does it all. Even composite with the PVM will look better than a consumer TV. As with all pro monitors, every single aspect of the picture is 100% adjustable. If the top or bottom 5 scanlines on your TV are cut off or the left or right edge don't line up, you are stuck with it, or using the very limited service menu to fix it if you're lucky. Why the 20M4U model I chose: One of the last and newest PVM and best models made before Sony stopped CRT production so it's not a worn out 1980s tube like say the popular PVM-2530, no convergence issues in the corners, etc. HR Trinitron = analog display perfection. To put it into context, this had .30 mm pitch and 800 lines TV resolution in the 90s before HD. It had component video when most people didn't know what S video was yet. I do have a Sony F500R 21" FD Trinitron monitor as well, but a 2048x1536 PC SVGA monitor isn't quite the same thing as a 15KHz "TV" monitor and not all that great for retro gaming either, in addition to the need for a H/V sync separater.
Really wish I could post pics. But no matter what I do I can't get pics to do it justice so I'd rather post nothing at all. Either I get overexposed bloomed out images, or flash washes it out, reflections or distortions from the thick CRT glass, shutter timing issues showing the refresh, moire patterns from the .30mm grill pitch, false misconvergence and chromatic aberration from the camera lens and angle to the CRT glass, etc... Lets just say think of the best brand new CRT arcade you've seen. This is better.
I think my stuff looks pretty fantastic upscaled on my lcd at the moment (line doubled through an xrgb 2 and sent in via vga). Have you tried adding in scanlines with something like the slg3000? Many have claimed it improves the image greatly for them, even on those cheap cga vga scalers from ebay. http://wp1114205.wp150.webpack.hosteurope.de/xtcmodified/product_info.php?products_id=12 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n7gBw8mt5s If you're getting horrible input lag after getting it all set up, you're doing it wrong =) don't play videogames on projectors and choose your game playing tv's for their input latency. I would get a pvm if I had the opportunity, but please don't discount modern displays. There is an entire community who discusses and works on this stuff. bboydocument, you can find out more info on this stuff here http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
Hey, sorry for digging up old thread, I just wonder which 1 mohm resistor should I use? I got access to 0.1W, 0.125W and 0.25W mohm SMD resistors? Thanks!
You seem to know your stuff. Is there a Sony PVM with a little bit bigger of a screen that you'd recommend?
I did the upgrade today but now I can not load games anymore, I get the error "ERROR: ram file bigest than 327". Did I miss any component? I can run the game that is currently in memory, but can not load new rom. I got the DSP inside (clk 753 in the everdrive menu),74HCU from the Pilotwings cartridge, then 1 mohm resistor. My board is a 1.3 Super Everdrive. Thanks! Update 1 --------- Ok fixed it, reformated flash cart, now loading new games works again! Update 2 --------- Too bad, Pilotwings/MK did not work ;-(
PVM 2530, PVM 2950Q, PVM 3230, etc. I don't know all the model numbers but there are 25", 29" and 32" versions. Nec XM29 is also great if you want a traditional shadow mask tube instead of Trinitron. Three things to keep in mind though. -The bigger models will be more prone to corner misconvergence and geometric distortions as any larger CRT is. -The bigger models like the, 25" PVM-2530 that is popular, are much older models ( manf. 1980s) and thus harder to find a bright pristine tube with low hours and no abuse. Might want to demo in person before buying used. -If you can't find one locally and have to rely on someone to ship, most of the large 25"+ displays are sold as "local pickup only". I have a PVM-20M4U because it was $140 shipped in original packing material, build date in the late 90s, original owner, and only 100 hours of use on it in a personal home editing bay. I wouldn't mind a bigger display at some point, but I couldn't pass this one up even if it is only a 20".
Thanks for that info, exdeath. The model you ordered, I presume, is guaranteed to be made in the late 90s?
If I do the crystal above, can I skip 74hc04 ? Also is it connected with two or three wires? (looks like a stripped wire on the left).
Hi, What's the IC added above the Altera chip ? And what's the value of the SMD capacitor added near the 74HCU04. Is there a log which lists differences between board revision ? I have a SE1.3 and I would like to know what has changed since I got it. Thanks a lot.
ic ft245, 0.1u caps. revisions: 1.4 more easy dsp instalation 1.5 more fast flashing 1.6 is same like 1.5, just used A size tantalum caps instead of C size
The Super Everdrive is out of stock at most online stores. You can see a list of stores here: http://krikzz.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7 However I only found that this store has it in stock: http://neotienda.es/index.php?id_product=72&controller=product
