Repair/Restore my Nintendo M82

Gorgeous! Good work on rescuing a piece of gaming history!

 

Thanks guys, managed to find a spot in my games room for it

 

nice work ! It's a pleasure to see a such equipment restaured and working.

For my arcade panel I have found a "professionnal school" ("apprentice school" ?) near my home specialized in metal working who did me the panel for near anything (hole punching + bending the inox sheet).

 

I apologize for bumping this thread, but I am having issues with my M82, and all of these photos really helped me figure out where all the wires are supposed to go.

I acquired an M82 and it was not working properly (would only boot 1 out of 50 times, if that). I managed to figure the issue out: there was a chip with the Texas Instruments logo and "TIBPAL 16L8-15CN" on it that had corrosion all over it. I ordered a new chip, replaced it, and all was working fine!

However, for some reason, the controllers stopped working. I realized I had accidentally plugged the controller ribbon cable into where the front panel/reset button/LED display goes, and vice-versa. Could this have fried anything?

I have been ripping my hair out trying to figure out why it is not working, so I figured maybe someone could give me a pointer. Keep in mind it did work just fine when I first got it (though it had issues booting because of the corroded TIBPAL chip).

Thanks in advance!

 

TIBPAL 16L8-15CN is a Texas Instrument made part of this kind:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Programmable_Array_Logic

Meaning that you just fitted a BLANK chip on the place of a chip that is programmed to execute a certain function.

 

I didn't realise this was here. I found the same thing on some other forum and was amazed at the level of repairing that was taken. Wish I got that lucky to find something as rare as this. Guess I'll have to live with my Sega Demo System DS-16...

 

Oh wow...you just saved me so much time you have NO idea. I mean I am still screwed because the original chip is toast, but at least I won't waste time any longer.

I know this is a long shot but is there any chance anyone could have any idea what the TIBPAL 16L8-15CN did exactly? I still get the BIOS/startup screen to go and sometimes I get the game to boot as well. Could it possibly affect the controllers working?

I am assuming getting a blank one programmed will be impossible?

 

I would see where it connects to, but by the bits of information you gave out, I'd assume it's being used to interrupt the game pad inputs when the playtime runs out.

 

The TIPEL 16L8-15CN is a programmable chip so you just need some one to dump there chip and your need to burn the image onto yours (or get someone to send you a chip).

http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/TIBPAL16L8-15CN/296-10085-5-ND/380608

I have a chip programmer but unsure if it supports this chip, when I get some free time I'll check it out for you. If I can re-write this chip I'll dump mine for you.

 

Thank you again so much for your reply. I am confused about the chip having anything to do with the controller, because it seems like the chip has impacted whether I get a picture or not. For reference, when I pull the chip out, I do not get any video (just a white screen). But if this is true, and it does impact the controller working, you just saved me a boatload of trouble. Thank you so much.

Wow. I figured it was one in a million that someone would have replied to me here; I thought maybe 3 months from now someone may have accidentally came across it and had some info but the same day??? You guys are incredible!!

I can send you some blank TIBPAL16L8s and of course something out of appreciation for your time! How did I get so lucky that the guy in the OP also had a PIC programmer?

Thank you again so much. This forum and you guys are incredible.

 

I assume now you've put the cables in the right order the game select LED is now working?

 

I've just checked which chips I can burn with my programmer here: http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/mcumall_TrueUSBWillemsupportICs.asp

I'm not sure mines compatible with that chip, the closet match I have is: PIC16LF628

I have the True-USB PRO GQ-4X Willem Programmer

 

Yes. I had accidentally plugged the front panel with the LED to the pin header on the LEFT. Meanwhile, the controller cable is supposed to go there. To give myself credit, it's a pretty easy mistake to make since they are both identical cables. The odd thing is that the front panel still works for switching games even in the wrong port! You just do not get the LED display.

But now that I have everything hooked up properly, I found it very odd that the controllers no longer work, even though they worked before. It's not possible I fried the controller ports or something, is there?

I wouldn't even know how that would be possible; the most advanced thing on the controller PCB is a capacitor. Is it possible the Texas Instruments chip that rotted is causing the issue?

Oh boy, too bad. The chips is almost totally corroded, but it's not really corroded on the top. Should I just solder the chip directly to the socket? Or is that an incredibly bad idea?

 

PIC is a type of SoC (System on a Chip) microcontroller. Nothing to do with Programmable Array Logic.

 

If K1ngArth3r is willing to send me his chip and JimmyCrackCorn is willing to send me the blanks. I will attempt to dump the chip and program one of the new ones.

My programmer supports these chips and if this chip is dumpable (not checked datasheet, but I assume its protectable) - I feel that a backup should exist on the internet. Which is why I am willing to do it.

All I ask is return postage costs

 

PALs can be protected against reading, but their logic can be reversed through the black box approach (test all possible combinations at the inputs and log the outputs)...

 

Wait, so when I bought the replacement chips from Texas Instruments, was I plugged in a blank chip?

I guess we will wait to hear from K1ngArth3r but the only things I've ever contributed here was a PowerPak/Everdrive comparison review and my SNES motherboard revision findings; hardly anything of huge value. In short, I'd definitely want to return the favor or pay you for your time.

 

Yep. One thing for sure that PAL does is reset the NES when the timer runs out. So maybe that's where part of your problem is ?
It might also block the controllers so kids won't keep playing all the day on it if it's left unattended.

Doesn't matter how small one contributions are, as everything adds to the collective universe of things we do. Don't be sad about it, use that feelings to work into achieving more ! (You're at it already, just commenting about it)

 

You dont owe me anything, I am doing it to get the dump on the internet for preservation. You getting a programmed chip just confirms it works OK. Consider yourself a test dummy, this is your contribution.

 

I don't mind dumping the chip myself but wouldn't want to remove and send to a stranger (no disrespect) because without the chip I too would have a knackered M82.

Im maybe willing to pickup a cheap programmer to dump this chip though if anyone can suggest one?