SNES 1-CHIP Bad_ad84 PCB Mod Disscusion

Hi,

I know this is a little off topic but does anyone know of a UK PSU that can be used to power a US SNES JR?

It uses a connector I have never seen before.


Thanks

 

best bet is to mod the snes to use 21mm

other wise you need one of these

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/power-tip-connector-r-ar28f (Blue tip)
and one of these
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/3a-dc-output-power-supply-cable-18m-aq81c

 

here is an update from my "good 1CHIP" that IGR stuff work fine:

Today I added the decoupling 47uf/100nf caps at the chips:
47uf at the 50/60hz board power input and 100nf ceramic caps to each of the 74xxx chips.
47uf+100nf to each of the PIC chips (photo below shows the caps on the IGR pic disconnected)



By adding these the IGR stopped working for me. Removing the caps from the IGR pic restored the gamepad functionality but the console's reset button no longer affected hz switching. Removing the SuperCIC pic caps restored the reset button as well.
I don't know why adding these caps functionality would be affected... the mobo is a 1CHIP-01 revision btw.
ATM I am thinking of removing completely the PIC caps but leave the 50/60hz switch ones in place...

edit:
If it ain't broke don't fix it: I removed the extra decoupling caps, the machine was acting up, mainly the onboard reset. :\

On the other hand, my 2nd 1CHIP-01 (that I thought had a bad rgb encoder) was actually benefited by the decoupling caps, the flashing screen parts no longer occur. This one does not have the IGR addon though.

Both consoles are recently recapped (the "bad" one the moment I got stable video with the decoupling caps)

 

I'll do some testing. I may make some of the caps optional incase you have issues.

I suspect it's probably just the 47uf that needs to be optional. If the op wants to try removing that cap and let me know, I am away with work at the moment and won't be able to investigate until the weekend.

However, I certainly did need the 47uf cap for one console, as it wouldnt work without it - much like your problematic one.

 

I will try that at some point this week and report back.

 

I still don't understand what it is.

 

Sorry I forgot to say thanks.. my bad

Thanks for the help

 

Soooo.. A not as cool looking modchip installation in a 1-chip as Bad_ad84, but in my defense my normal soldering and electric skillz are limited to splicing cables and such.

Promise not to laugh... that much



Assembled for testing.









The routing of the cables didnt come out as clean as I wanted, but on the other hand its the function that is most important. Couldnt follow Bad_ad84's routing since my wires were to thick
Slaughtered a cat5e cable for wires... Maby not the best choice..

Im amazed to see that everything actually works on the first go, or atleast everything but In game reset works (switching video modes work like a charm). Guess I should try to delsolder the 47uf?
I know the recomendation was to add it if needed but I got carried away with my soldering iron...

 

There are 2 in game resets - long and normal.

Do either work? (L + R + SELECT + START or X)

 

None of the reset features work only the video modes.

 

Not quite sure whats going on there, reset (START) works fine for me, but the long reset (with X) doesnt.

I have the console from earlier in the thread on my workbench now, so having a look for a fix. But dont really understand why it doesnt work - the pic is clearly reading the pad and to reset the console its just a case of a pulse on the reset line.

If you press reset twice on the console, you should get a long reset - showing the superCIC is doing its jo fine. All clues point to the IGR.

 

Ok issue and a fix found.

There is a missing connection on the PCB (but its in my schematic?!).

Connect a wire from pin 2 of the IGR pic to pin 13 of the supercic. It should then work correctly, you can do this on the top or the bottom of the PCB.

Will have this fixed for next batch and any of the remaining prototypes I sell will have the IGR and SuperCIC soldered in and this wire added on the rear of the board.

Here is your picture edited for ease, just connect the 2 legs marked red:

 

Ok I think something is a miss here

before the Fix was found bad_ad advised me to remove the 47uF Cap which I did, that did not solve the issue but it made thins worse. Some of my games stopped working. My SD2SNES wont load, Nor my Stunt Race FX and a few others. and other games wont load unless in a certain Region.

I returned the cap to its place and still the same games wont work as above

now I have don't the pin2 to pin13 fix and YES its fixed IGR for the games that do run My other games as above wont work

(Before removing the cap and that's all I did they worked fine, just didn't have IGR)

The non running games and SD2SNES I have tried on my other SNES and they load without Issues


something happened when I removed the cap and it seems to be permanent

 

Try disconnecting +5v and ground from the 1chip PCB. (you will need to put the crystal back and might need to connect the CPU111 pin to either ground or +5v)

See if your sd2snes works then.

sd2snes takes extra power from the console and caps are starting to fail on snes's now.

You console could be due a recap and the extra power draw from the 1chip pcb and the sd2snes is too much for it.

Removing/adding the cap shouldnt have done anything to cause what you describe. Just sounds like a power issue (see ikari's recent FAQ on his website too)

 

You where right about Power Draw (I have an ESR coming soon so will test the Caps). I Plugged in a 3Amp PSU and the SD2 SNES and Stunt Race FX worked.
New Issue though. The Orange Auto Region Works on the console reset button but not the IGR. If in on Green it wont Change or do anything and if im on RED it will turn to green

 

If you use the reset button, you cant use the IGR to change mode. If you use the IGR, the reset button does not work right either.

This is how it works even without my PCB.

You need to power off if you use both ways.

Basically, just stick to using the pad.

 

ok I think I know what you mean

from a cold start if I start using the reset button, then the controller IGR will not function correct and if I start using Controller IGR, the reset wont function correct

need to stick with 1 style

 

Correct

 

Good day
I successfully soldered the PCB kit with all the components which you sent (SuperCIC, 1chip 50/60hz, IGR & 3 coloured LED including the 47uF capacitor), I completely removed the default CIC and installed the new PCB into the 1-CHIP SNES as shown in the instruction in this thread (With some variations and alternative points to make the wires much shorter like the +5V & Ground points from R13 & C57 respectively, connected CIC8 pad to C29 instead of scraping the neighboring point and CIC10 pad directly to CIC pin 10 instead of scraping the point north from the cartridge pins as shown in the picture above:

But I encountered some problems.

If I connect the 3 IGR pads to the joypad pins, the LED starts off as orange and slowly changes to red by its self, but none of my games boot and neither do the joypad combinations work.

Without connecting the IGR pads to the Joypad pins, the reset button function does not work, so I can’t change between any of the video modes. The LED is permanently set to orange colour (Auto Mode) and games from Europe, Japan & USA all play at 50HZ. Sometimes randomly the LED changes to Green 50Hz Mode by its self, or does not turn on at all when I switch on the console.

Also after some time the display gradually gets fuzzy, shaky and very distorted, but the music continues to play.
Also the games don't start right away and I have to turn off and on the console multiple times and re-instal the cartridge. until it finally boots.

I checked the connections and everything seems to be ok.
Is there something I’m missing, or doing wrong here?!

Thanks in advance.

 

Sounds like something is certainly not connected correctly.

Sounds like a bad soldering joint around CIC pin 8 and/or 10 to me. You also could have some parts in the wrong place on the PCB - 10k resistor is a possible candidate.

Did you remove the original CIC?

Need some pictures of your work and of the PCB, clear enough so we can see whats what.