SNES 1-CHIP Bad_ad84 PCB Mod Disscusion

Hi
Yes I removed the original CIC and before I lifted 1-CHIP pin 111 and SRG9B pin 9, I alternately tried to cut the traces leading to the pins to isolate them from the rest of the board and solder on to them directly while still connected onto the PCB instead of lifting them, but after checking with the multimeter, the continuity was not severed and thus I stopped digging / cutting into the PCB and decided to lift them instead and soldered onto them as the instruction describe.

I also used a larger 3 colour LED than the one you sent.

http://imageshack.com/a/img42/3517/oeqg.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img28/8648/adv6.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img843/143/ccih.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img541/73/qcir.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img20/9238/ydtz.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img15/1194/qs2v.jpg
http://imageshack.com/a/img811/1598/g5sn.jpg


So can you see anything that could explain this problem?

 

First concern is the +5v point. Id suggest you get it from the voltage regulator like has been shown in this thread. See if that improves anything first.

Your CIC points, not sure whats correct on the cart slot - as I have not logged them down yet.

 

Hi
I coloured all the points with the appropriate colours to show exactly where each wire goes.

Here:
http://imageshack.com/a/img35/2315/hv15.jpg
I hope this helps.

Yes if the above wiring is correct, I’ll change both the +5V & Ground lines to the voltage regulator with the same thick wires and if that fails, I’ll also change all the caps on the SNES.

By the way, do I also have to connect a wire from pin 2 of the IGR pic to pin 13 of the supercic as you show here:



Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, you will need to connect those with a wire. However, it shouldnt cause the issue you have. But add it just to rule it out. But I suspect power.

Your CIC -> cart pinout, I cant check at the moment as I am away from home all week again with work. Hopefully someone else can trace it out and confirm you have that part correct.

 

same issue as I had before. the XTAL_1 is in the wrong hole on the mother board

 

Hi.
Are you referring to my installation?
http://imageshack.com/a/img35/2315/hv15.jpg


By the way, are you all using thin Kynar wires for this installation, or thin polyclonal wires like the ones used in PS2 mod chips?
This is the 1st time I used Kynar simply to be able to fit through those holes on the mother board. So which is best for this specific installation?

Thanks in advance

 

The choise of soldering point for CIC8 seems a bit odd to me.
As far as I can see everything seems to be in correct place.
I used wires from a cat5e network cable, no bling bling tiny stuff. Best about the network cables is the colorcoding imo

Ill add the extra wire on my addon board today!

 

Agreed, CIC8 on mine is connected to the via just above the capacitor. Its possible they are connected, but I cant test as not at home.

CIC8 is basically the input from the reset button. So if you have connected that wrong, it might make the SuperCIC chip reset or change mode randomly - so like I said originally, sounds like a problem around CIC8

Let me know the outcome of the fix.

 

According to my multimeter, the point you have choosen to solder SuperCIC8 is "correct", even thougt if seems odd to solder the wire to the capacitor instead of the via thats right next to

 

Hmm now I am confused...
If I add the wire from S-CIC pin 13 to IGR leg 2, the reset and long reset features start working. But for some strange reason the video mode change dies...
If i press on the controller/reset button the color of the LED change, but not the video mode. And i cant get it to go to auto. When trying to boot a NTSC cartridge nothing happends. Pal cartridges work fine.
If I remove the wire, the video modes work but not IGR (ofc..)

 

When you boot up, are you messing with the mode via the reset button?

If you cold boot the console, it should work from the pad. If you use the reset button to change modes, the controller will not operate it properly. This just how it works

 

Yeah, i read that earlier in the thread.

Doesnt matter if I try to switch video mode via controller or reset button, with the "jumpercable" in place my consolle dont change mode. Only changes the color of the LED (regardless of if i use pad/reset).
With, IGR works, but not video/region. Without video mode works.,

 

That's really odd. The wire certainly has to be there between pin 2 on igr and pin 13 or supercic.

Like I have mentioned, I'm not at home but will see if mine acts like yours and try to find the issue. Are you sure you have not linked wrong point or solder/wire isn't touching pin(s) next to the ones you are supposed to solder?

You 3 are the only ones with boards. Will get to the bottom of it.

 

So, I changed the wiring exactly as shown in this thread, with the 47uF capacitor, I connected the CIC8 point to that VIA instead, the CIC10 point to that other VIA north from the cartridge pins, bridged pin 2 of the IGR pic to pin 13 of the supercic, even used your smaller led and I also changed the Voltage regulator with a new L7805CV & connected 2 thick polyclonal wires +5V & Ground to it, instead of the older default KIA7805P 7F and now all games boot right away, the LED, Video & Reset functions worked both by the Joypad & Reset button of the console for a while but after some time both the joypad & reset function would randomly not work and a black screen was displayed while the music played in the background, but worse of all is the graphics got really messed up on every single video mode I tried, with games from the 3 regions (EUR/JPN/USA). Sound and both joypad ports seem to work fine.

L+R+Select+B Function Auto Video Mode (Orange LED) seems to have stopped working completely. Now when I press "B" & "A" it switches between PAL/50HZ (Green) & NTSC/60HZ (Red). By the reset button of the console it seems to work some times.

So I’m not exactly sure what went wrong here?!
I need tips to fix this!
Thanks in advance

 

Yes Im 100% sure about not touching any other pin, but need to tripple check so I soldered to the right pin. Even tho it should be hard to mess that one up given that I had a picture to follow. Maby human Error. (or I am Error, as Zelda 2 taught us!)

retroborg: Im no guru, but check the S-rgb9 connection?
And a longshot, but try to desolder the jumper cable between pin 2 on IGR and pin 13 on SuperCIC. If it does like mine the video mode change will work but the IGR will stop working.

 

The corruption shouldn't be rgb9, that controls ntsc or pal. If you have lifted wrong pin or damaged one next to it - thats a possibility. Otherwise it looks like dirty (or damaged) cart slot to me. Maybe from soldering the back of the cart slot pins too long?

 

If it had been in contact with multiple pins I should have gotten some strange errors since i didnt remove it, I just cut the wire to see if the video mode on the pad would work.

 

No suggestions for that until I get back to test mine fully.

Only thing I can think of is 10k resistor not being in the correct spot possibly. But I will build a fresh board and install in another console with the fix and see what happens.

 

Oh you could try removing the 47uf cap like keropi experimented with too.


Edit:

Right, got home early (out rest of the week after tonight). Just wired up a console, this is what I am getting:

With jumper cable in place, can reset (long and short) and can change video mode. "Auto" just seems to give me PAL regardless. Everything else is right though, except with 1 of my test games - nothing works at all from the pad. Change game - works perfect.

Will report back with more results. But sounds like possible issues so far.


If any of you want to send me back the boards, I will cover return postage, refund you the cost of the PCB (just the pcb, £3) and send you just the parts for a DIY install if you like.
or

I send me the board back (I will cover your postage costs) for a full refund.

I will get to the bottom of this and do a v2 and/or post what needs to be done to fix these boards, if you choose to keep them.

 

It seems it's very tricky to get this going, it only appears to be a simple design but it can easily crap out because of a cap or the phase of the moon...
I've ordered a 3rd SNES to try the board out but it turned out to be the old revision.... wasted money and time... I would love to help debug this