SNES 1-CHIP Bad_ad84 PCB Mod Disscusion

Hi

I decided to start this thread as a help to people that wish to use the great Bad_Ad84 1-Chip PCB.

Board only Rev1 (courtesy bad_ad84)


Board soldered up with 100R on green LED line again Rev1 (courtesy bad_ad84)




U3 SuperCIC Chip and U4 IGR Chip (the other 2 are labelled) bad_ad84 will correct label for next run
Just a note for people using the first batch (Use 100R on the green LED line its better) bad_ad84 will have that changed for next run
Red LED to red LED Pin (Obvious)
Green LED to Red LED pin (Obvious)
LED Ground pin can go to any GND point, even the GND of the board
[STRIKE]X1_R1 to XTAL Right hand side pin, board edge facing you. (Original XTAL to be removed)[/STRIKE]
TC1+ to TC1 positive point. Bellow removed XTAL crystal (Original XTAL to be removed)
+5 to any +5 point
GND to any GND point
SRGB9 to pin 9 of SRGB Chip (Lifted)
CPU111 to Pin111 of 1-Chip IC (Lifted)
CIC1 to CIC pin 1 (Assume CIC Removed)
CIC2 to CIC pin 2 (Assume CIC Removed)
CIC7 to CIC pin 7 (Assume CIC Removed)
CIC8 to CIC pin 8 (Assume CIC Removed)
CIC10 to CIC pin 10 (Assume CIC Removed)
CIC11 to CIC pin 11 (Assume CIC Removed)
Pad2 to on board ribbon connector Pin 8 (or Joypad 1 Port 2)
Pad3 to on board ribbon connector Pin 10 (or Joypad 1 Port 3)
Pad4 to on board ribbon connector Pin 6 (or Joypad 1 Port 4)

Non labelled Components Used (components without silkscreen values)
C1, C2, C3, C4 are all 22pf Capacitors
C5, C6, C7, C8 are all 100nf Capacitors
CP1 is a 47uF electrolytic 16v Capacitor


Notes:

As you can see there is a lot of discrepancies, in layout of the 2 types of boards, The main differences are the CIC chip location, SRGB location and Orientation, and TC1 orientation.
Removing the CIC chip is the best option for a SNES Mini This is because the area is sooooo tight that its very awkward to manuver and using a rework station heat the chip and lift with a pair of tweezers. you may find your hand slips and some of the connector plastic starting to heat, it wont melt being ABS but DO NOT TOUCH IT, allow it to cool and it will harden again (Touching will distort it)
I would advise take care when soldering the CIC chip as it is very tight area and any pull tug or slip can ruin your work and your day. (I broke 2 point during soldering and had to solder to a VIA)
Pin 111 on any version is a nightmare to lift, the pins are so close that you cant really get a pin behind it, I know I couldn't get my pick behind it. the way I did it and you may have your own way, I solder braided the tip of the pin near the pad also DE soldering pin 110 this caused the pins to become free but not lifted, from there I lightly moved pin 110 so I could get my pick being pin 111 and lifted it, once lifted I positions the pin 110 back in place its didn't really move and just touched it with my fine tip solder iron and it stuck back down.
Pin 9 SRGB again for a SNES Mini is awkward, but I managed to get my pick behind it which helped, I lightly put pressure as I heated it and when I felt it come unstuck I stopped everything and moved away. moving away saves you from over tugging and gives you time to access. I then used my pick to lift it up as it was free. once done using a fine tip solder I moped up the pad just so there can be no accidental touches.
The Ground point Pin 64 SRAM is pretty simple all you need to do is lightly touch the solder iron on the pin. that's all it takes is a light touch and the wire will bond to it (you do not lift this pin).
The Pad points, if you turn the board over you will find next to each pin of the joypad connector a solder pad. those are VIAs and you can solder to them. Its much easier
The rest is plain sailing.

Good luck and I hope everyone successful SuperCIC modding
And a big Thank you to bad_ad84 for the PCB and a very big thank you to Ikari01 for writing the code and making all this possible.












On a side note, usually when buying from bad_ad84 you will receive a kit with the LED as well, but if you want to be a little different then you can use a Common Cathode RGB LED. To wire that up is simple as any other, common cathode is used as its similar to the tricolour LED and has a common GND.



RED LED to Red pin of LED
GND to any GND point
GREEN LED to Blue pin of LED
(GREEN Pin not used)

Resister values stay the same when following this colour code and will give you a mixed Purple LED (Ideal for SNES Mini consoles).
I would not recommend using the BLUE and GREEN LED combo, not that its an issue but the combo wont be that nice looking and greens will be merged and you wont be able to tell difference, plus you will need an extra 100R Resistor and not use the 220R Resistor.
To do that combo just add Green LED to Green Pin and RED LED to Blue Pin and change the 220 RED Resistor to 100R.

If you have trouble finding RGB Common Cathode LEDs then ask me I can provide them.

 

U4 is IGR, U3 is SuperCIC

Rest sounds pretty correct, other than the PAD connections - as I just used a multimeter and didnt take note of position on the ribbon cable, so I cant confirm that.

A picture would be best way to show it, once you get the board.

 

I used your picture to count the pins for the pads



I got the pin numbers right 6, 8 and 10 but what pad do they go to im not sure
but im assuming if using the actual 1P joypad connector then it goes to Pin 2, Pin3 and Pin4

 

Good work, I forgot I even posted that picture.

And yes, I just plugged in the controller ports and used a multimeter. If you download the source code for the IGR mod, it tells you which pins of the IGR PIC is which pad connection - you can then tie this up from my picture above. (I do not think its in order off the top of my head, I think PAD2 is pin 6, PAD3 is pin 10 and PAD4 is pin 8)

The board has a 10k pull down on pin 8 of the CIC, so you can remove the original CIC and just solder it in (no need for the SMD resistor in that picture above). But it should work equally as well with the original CIC left in place and the appropriate pins lifted.

Also, you should probably put a picture of the board in your first post?

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28488139/IMG_20140105_151225.jpg

 

cool, I updated first post for Rev1 boards. once you get Rev2 we can update this thread with it

 

looking awesome... is this for sale yet?

 

I have 6 of the v1 prototypes, just waiting for a few more success/failure stories before I order v2 with some minor tweaks.

Testing went OK in my personal console, will see what happens for the OP and then go from there.

 

soon as I get all my bits and bobs I will test and report back how all went

EDIT: I used kel board diagram to fix the joypad pinouts so now they should be correct

 

ah, nice, thanks for the clarification(s)

 

edited post 1 with more info to make install easier

 

Looks like a fantastic little PCB - have been meaning to get one for my 1-chip SNES, I think I'll wait for the board to get sorted and will order one then!

 

only Silkscreen text needs fixing which wont be seen once components soldered on other wise board is fine and works, so if you want one get one while bad_ad has a few left as the next batch wont arrive tmoz it will take time. Received my board today

 

Hey put me down for a board.

 

pm bad ad for one as im not sure if he monitors this thread

 

Something to add:

C1, C2, C3 and C4 are all 22pf caps
C5, C6, C7, C8 are all 100nf

 

post 1 updated

 

Just did an install on a phat 1chip console.

Decided that the placement I use on the mini (on the shielding) is no good on these consoles, as the eject mechanism gets in the way.

So I mounted on the rear:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28488139/IMG_9436.JPG
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28488139/IMG_9437.JPG

Think it went pretty well

Edit:

This is how I mount the LED:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28488139/IMG_9438.JPG

 

Will the case close fine with the board mounted on the bottom? Board looks nice by the way.

 

fits fine, loads of room under the pcb (at least on this console).

Obviously checked before putting it there

Insultation tape on the PCB in the area I mounted it, then double sided foam tape for mounting the PCB to the insulted area. Dont want DIP pins shorting out on the snes board.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/28488139/IMG_9439.JPG

 

nice. can I get a pic of how you mounted RGB9 point

love how you used vias to solder to the bottom. always liked your solder skills they are exceptional