USB GDrom Thread

Found it, it was Rocky5 that tested all (usa/pal) of them :

http://assemblergames.com/l/threads...pen-facebook-group.39733/page-104#post-780959
He updated the list of problematic games here : http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/usb-gdrom-thread.56946/page-2#post-815628
(Thanks to him for doing this, it's hard work).

Since it seem that compatibility is very close to 100%, I don't know if it's worth it to do a full compatibility list.
Probably just writing the one that have issues can be enough.

 

Currently testing every CDI (commercial/homebrew etc) I can, and am halfway through a compatibility list.
As I said before, yes, I realise GDI is the way to go, but this isn't necessarily the case for ALL games.
(Will always look first for a 99-minute version or similar without any ripped out / downsampled media, just because I like single files instead of folders.) Thus, I think it's best to compile a list of CDI versions, as most people have these.

For the list, I will also post what the problem is, if it occurs with a CDI in my specific case (as this might or might not be partly fault of the medium brand used) and try with a GDI.


Also this: http://ayasuke2.exblog.jp/24416694/ (the button mod)
Tired of the slow opening/closing of the lid. I actually like the look of his button used, but instead of using an on/off button, I will try with a push button, which will hopefully work a lot faster.
(Still have one of the small reset buttons which I used for homebrew reset. If this works, I'll look for a nicer one to put on top of the lid.)

 

I wonder why Mnemo still hasn't updated the firmware page to the latest available. I wonder what the changes were.

 

Well, it shouldn't be too long now I think (well, I hope so at least)

I'm waiting for this one as well.

 

I'm hoping to get my understand of the heat issue cleared up. I was under the impression that the 12v rail was used if you use the VGA output, but not if using standard composite. Does using the VGA output change the 12v load at all? If not I was sent a 300ohm resistor with the USB GD-ROM. Is this sufficient or should I put something else in?

 

Features! Hmmm...

 

Recieved a usb-gdrom a couple of days ago.

Firmware is 15/11/20(a):



Using PNY 256GB Flash drive with no problem. Windows only wanted to format as exFAT which was not recognized by usb-gdrom. Downloaded fat32format to format flash. Fat32 with 512 allocation size is recognized fine. Can get fat32format here: http://www.ridgecrop.demon.co.uk/index.htm?fat32format.htm Direct download link for gui version is: http://www.ridgecrop.demon.co.uk/guiformat.exe

Also noticed can organize the flash drive however you want. Not limited to organization presented in the two rars on the official site (root_init.rar and root_init2.rar). You do not need dashboard.iso on the flash drive.

I soldered the lid switch onto the usb-gdrom. There no longer is a need to cut off the little plastic post on the bottom of the switch. The usb-gdrom has a hole in the board for that post.

This device really is magic. I'm still organizing my 256gb drive and am amazed that I have 53 gd-disc games on it with 155GB still available for more games.

Some more pics:







Notice you could not use the lower usb port even if you wanted to. It is not connected to the board.

 

Can someone help me understand why you would want to put a resistor between the 12V and ground pins on the power supply? I'm no electrical engineer, but wouldn't that add another load parallel to the mainboard and increase the total current draw (and consequently, heat) from the PSU? I could see putting a resistor in series with the mainboard to reduce the voltage on downstream components, if that's a concern, but I don't think that's what's being done here.

This seems more like an airflow issue. Once you remove the disk drive, you interrupt the airflow around the enclosed PSU and mainboard by opening a hole where the drive used to be. So now there's air flowing in through the top instead of over the components.

 

I have some questions around this topic as well. I do know that the GD-ROM that shipped with the console ran off of 12V, so there is no load once the drive is replaced. Adding this resistor does add load, which helps the PSU run within the parameters it was designed for.

What I am trying to find out is whether any of the output peripherals like the VGA box will add a 12V load therefore negating the necessity of the resistor.

 

I was toying with my Dreamcast yesterday using a VGA box and it was getting pretty warm. I did not measure the voltage of the 12V rail, however.

I hooked up an 80mm PC case fan to the 12V rail and stuck it right above the gap where a disc would go, and now the Dreamcast is very cool. The air blowing out the top is lukewarm, about what I'd expect coming out the right side. The 80mm fan is too big to keep there permanently, so I ordered a 60x60x10mm fan. I'm hoping I can stuff that inside the console and forget about the whole thing. At worst, I might need to cut a grill into the lid, or just keep the lid open while it's turned on.

 

Someone that did the lid switch mod can share some info?

Did you use a push button or a two state button?
Does it bridge all the 4 points on the right edge of the board? is that it?

I tried using a small wire today to test it while using code breaker but I was able to open the lid and it stays "insert the game disk"as if I haven't closed the lid.

 

If i remember right you have to desolder the lid switch from your original gdrom and solder it again on the usb gdrom.
I didn't use any other button.
This way, it should detect the opened lid as it should.

edit : just look at here : http://krikzz.com/forum/index.php?topic=1503.msg30160#msg30160

 

It worked! Thanks

I was afraid I had threw away my old gdrom drive but I was able to find it.
Now I can enjoy some widescreen codes with code breaker.

 

Tried finding about more details from Mnemo about the new firmware but I was told to wait until release. Ah well, it is at 95% progress now!

 

Awesome! At least the progress bar is moving, that's something!


(stolen from https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3zx8xo/loading_bars_fixed/)

 

I tried with my ( already installed) reset button's wires connected to the board as a test, and it kinda works: the reset button is a OFF/(ON) button, so I concluded it actually should work inversed.
Unfortunately, before I tried this out, I had already found and ordered a nice blue button as such, but was in time to cancel the order in-shop.

What one would need is a ON/(OFF) button, which is constantly connected and interrupts the signal briefly.
The connection points for the button are either the two left ones or the two right ones... (just look at the link I provided a few posts back)

Stupid me, I already had desoldered the switch and mounted it on the USB-board... and when I desoldered it, the gun was set too high...
What happened is that I actually LOST the switch clip-on casing as it apparently had popped off because of the excessive heat.... :/
...and can't seem to find it anywhere on the ground.

 

Is there ANY chance of a 3rd party user-driven GUI like GD Menu for this, or MNEMO just won't allow it?

 

Hi, I would like to make the switch lid mod. I have vr.4 of the PCB and firmware 06/14/15.

I tried to two options (I used your picture) without soldering any wire, just with tape and it's not working:
A: one wire to yellow and one wire to red. When joined and separated I see the UGC menu.
B: two wires to each hole in yellow and then joined together, and the same for red. The same happens.

¿Anybody knows why am I so noob on this issue? This guy made it with option A (I think and it works)
http://ayasuke2.exblog.jp/24416694/

Regards

 

I'll be watching this discussion, as I'm not even sure I understand how the switch lid mod works.

 

I've used it in 2 ways:

Can queue two disc games. Highlight the 2nd disc of a two disc game and click "x." Go to the first disc and start. If you open the lid and close it, the disc you had previously selected with "x" will play.

If you did not select 2nd disc, then opening the lid will put you back to the game select screen. It's like hitting power off and then on