USB GDrom Thread

I'll have to check, but now that it's been mentioned I think I am playing a PAL version of NBA Hoopz. On a side note, should I buy a different PSU or modify the original? I didn't feel like it was excessively hot before, but have avoided playing much dreamcast because of the issue and would like to address it promptly.

 

If you don't burn your finger off after a few minutes, don't bother =)

 

Honestly - I don't know.
At first I wanted to remove the 12V or change the PSU, but after playing with my Dreamcast, I don't think I will - unless I have a problem that's it.
I don't have any weird smell, don't seem too hot, and it seem to work as good. (I have a V4 and kept the original gdrom drive on top, so maybe having a proper airflow is helping).
The GDEMU author didn't seem to be too worried about this : https://gdemu.wordpress.com/2014/05/26/too-hot-for-my-chinchilla/

But... the cooler the better. Up to you

 

I'll feel it again later today, but it seemed like I had it running for a solid hour and had my hand on the side of the shell and it felt warm, but didn't burn me whatsoever. I have the V.4, but don't have the GD Rom drive intact anymore.

 

Update: It was the NTSC region that didn't work, as Rocky said (possible region check) Pal version is okay.

The thing was, I assumed it didn't work because the same dump was used on my other DC with GDEMU before the recent update that fixed it and with it doing the same results (black screen on UGC) I thought it may have needed different similar timings adjusted, since that is what Deunan said, even though it's completely different hardware.

The other DC with GDEMU is a Jp region free bios and my UGC DC is a Jp default bios.

To add with removing the 12V, I had issues with my GDEMU and UGC crashing after a few hours (mostly between 2-3hours), if left on demo loops of Crazy Taxi and Sega Rally 2, plus a few other titles. The inside of the top case was hotter than it normally was with a stock GDROM. Since I removed the 12V resistor/transistor, the temps have dropped and no more crashing after 12 hours of testing.

Even if you don't get any smell or doesn't seem too hot, I would leave the console on for at least 12 hours on a demo loop. That helped me narrow down any possible issues that may occurred if doing any long DC sessions.

 

Just received my V1 today.
Anything I still need to take into account?
(Already installed the lid switch)

EDIT:
OK, it seems to work as should (haven't tested my lid switch yet, but crossing fingers).
I seem to already have the 15/07/28 firmware installed upon receival. I noticed that the most recent firmware on his website is dated 15/06/18 (older than mine). Am I right that updating the firmware is done by just clicking the bin file itself? If so, I'll just delete the file from my USB, as I'm not realy sure if I can downgrade by doing so....

-Also, is there a way to exit the game and going straight to the board's menu?
I did an in-game soft reset, which brought me to the DC GUI. From there I booted the 'game' option, but it started the previously selected game (buffered) per default.

Just wanted to say that I just tried a GDI of Zusar Vasar, and it worked from the first try.
So I guess Mnemo tests his boards properly before sending out.

 

I tried to downgrade from the same version as you, yet the clicking the bin file reverts back to the audio screen for me, so I guess a downgrade is not possible from 15/07/28 using the 15/06/18 from the site. I emailed Mnemo about this and never heard anything back nor could find any info at all about it this elsewhere.

Could you possible test this?

 

Why would you downgrade ? 15/07/28 is working fine for me.
I really want CCD support (and D2 disc swapping), I really hope for some fw upgrade. ^_^

 

To downgrade you mean?

For some reason, the lid switch doesn't work for me... two front pegs look like fine solders, but I might have botched the two back pegs (they didn't flow as should).
Need to desolder again... Hope I can get this working.
SO, just to know what to look for: how does the console behave when the lid switch DOES work? (and what does the console do at boot-up when the switch is forward?)

EDIT:
Just some info on the reset button: it DOES reboot the console, but since the console stays powered on, it just reboots the last buffered game through USB. Shame...
Does the manipulation of the lid switch take you back to the USB menu? If so, I'll connect the button to these points.

 

When the lid is opened after a game has been selected & launched, it will revert you back to the DC Bios screen (dashboard) when you close the lid & select the controller icon it will load you back into the UGC menu.
(if you have more than 1 game (total 6) in the swap list it will just load the next game in the list)

 

Hi all,

I seem to have an issue with the lid switch as well.

I can get it to work but to change a disc I seem to have to open the lid, close it then open it again before it will load. If I then try to close the lid again... it will stop loading the game and reset.

It will also not reset back to the main Dreamcast menu when I open the lid all of the time.... only on some games/situations.

I actually have this exact problem on two separate consoles/boards a v4 and a v5

I did think it might be a soldering issue, but surely it wouldn't work at all?

Cheers

 

I am going to be getting the USB-GDROM Controller ver. 5 and have been researching the issue regarding the excess heat coming from the 12 volt circuit caused by the removal of the GD-ROM. I am going to replace the PSU with a PicoPSU using the method Kuririn84 used earlier in this thread.

Someone posted two of the parts that were used, the six pin Molex connector and the contacts. However, I wasn't able to find the 24 pin 2 row Molex connector that was used. Does anyone know what that is?

Also, what parts were used for the DC power switch? Kuririn84 replaced the power switch connector with a Molex connector so it looks like I would need to remove the connector from the DC power switch and connect it to a male 2 pin Molex connector. Then connect that to a female Molex connector going to the PicoPSU.

 

You can have a look at my thread here (and the one below it) how I did it if you want.

http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/replacing-the-dc-psu.53856/page-9#post-814692

I sawed off the molex connector from the PicoPSU and used it to connect to the motherboard (second post).
For the DC power switch, you do not have to buy anything. You have two options.

Cut off the incoming 12v wire going to the PicoPSU (red) and connect each end to the ends of the power switch. That way, when you press the power button, 12v flows to the PicoPSU, turning the whole thing on. Short the green wire on the PicoPSU to ground if going this route.

Or, connect the power switch to green and ground on the PicoPSU. Then you turn it on that way.

 

OK, a while back, suddenly the lid detecting started to work: I managed to use the Game Shark cheat iso and boot games from there using the lid function (still need to check if Utopia works too, will check tonight). So everything is working well now and the reset button works as it should (as I said a few posts above).

Some remarks:
1 - some games have glitches in the soundtracks (some have mild hickups, such as Vanishing Point, but others suffer from sever noise).
I assume all of these games use CDDA.

2 - some games DON'T have any audio playback. I'm looking for different version to compare if this is due to the quality of certain iso dumps or this is common for certain games.

3 - a handfull of my games just reboot to the BIOS screen. I assume all (if not most of them) already DO have a boot sequence implemented. (For instance, I read a few posts back that Vanishing Point US version doesn't boot, but the PAL version does, which I can confirm). I'm still going to test all of these specific games with Utopia to see if they boot through this or not. A list with confirmed booting games or issues will thus come in handy.

4 - about a possible compatibility list : I don't see any yet. I am willing to post my findings somewhere so people can compare and possibly confirm this (such as the Dios Mios compatibility list). What would be the best way to make a list, preferably here on the forum?

5 - since we are working with a HDD attached, size issues don't really apply to us (700MB isos), so HQ dumps are recommended, as they're not ripped or downsampled (or GDI's for that matter, whatever). What I was wondering about though, is that most isos have been optimised for CD sizes, thus having a lot of dummy data. Would it be possible to remove such data from the isos to make them smaller? (eg some puzzle or 2D fighting games have this) I noticed that a lot of SD-compatible versions are available these days too... I haven't tried myself, but I assume these versions just lack any dummy data, so would these be definitely recommended for use on the USB-GD-rom as they are superior size-wise?

Looking forward to your input and collaboration on this.
Also a nice GUI with music and covers, and of course an option to button pre-set an IGR with boot to the menu

 

Yes PLEASE post your compatibility findings! Maybe a wiki page of some kind?

 

@Shinebi
The usb gdrom is picky about hard drive and usb enclosure. I had a 2.5" Toshiba that worked but I was experiencing problems with CDDA (I believe) games. Even the popular Soul Calibur was affected. I had music stuttering.
I switched to a 3.5 WD Blue drive, no more music problem. At least, I didn't noticed any. Which games that gives you problem ? I suggest you to try another drive if you have one. And use proper image of your games (gdi).

I recall somebody here did extensive testing with the UGC. I bought this one because of it (and only a couple of games were reporting not working, and that's motivated me).
I also thought theses games were the only games reported to not working with the firmware on the website (You need to add D2 (disc swapping) and games that require CCD apparently) :
http://assemblergames.com/l/threads/usb-gdrom-thread.56946/page-2#post-815628 (shadow man is working perfectly on mine, and ntsc vanishing point work - it's just got region check).

For the "nice GUI with music and covers", I for one don't want that, I prefer simple file selection, like it is now. (Maybe a wallpaper would be a nice addition, however )

 

I do agree that the best results are with GDi format, as I noticed some CDI games lacking audio with USB-GD drive.
They obviously work with GDI format.
I assume al GDI images are the exact same size... is it possible to filter out any dummy data there to preserve size on the USB drive?

Working on a list now (independently from any USB brand).
Just stating format, game's region, working ok/no music/not working.

Something I forgot to mention on the firmware update request list:
- would be nice if ONLY the actual CDI and GDI files are shown WITHOUT extentions and WITHOUT showing any RAW/BIN files.

Also:

Didn't check that yet, but was wondering about the Xploder MP3 CDI, as that boots up. An iso with music would work I guess...

 

You can shrink gdis using RebuildGDI, or at the very least by converting bins to isos and editing the gdi file accordingly.

 

I will look into that, thank you.
So if I am getting this right, an untouched GDI can be shrunk with RebuildGDI and afterwards still has the same structure/contents as the original (bar the dummy data ripped out) and will still look and behave as an original GDI (as is the extention), right?

 

Roughly yeah, it removes data that's blank and should never be accessed anyways. From the user pov it should be the same.

It works under gdemu, I think the USB gdrom would support it too.