What repairs have you done recently?

The component marked "D1" in this photo:

Should it have continuity? It's connected to the red power wire and when I checked each end of it with a multimeter, I've got a open circuit. Although this might be the ground point on the connector, not the red wire. In which case, I have no idea where everything leads to. I can follow the red wire from the disk connector, up to the RAM adapter, and I can't see where it goes from there.

 

What a nice looking diode! Clicky and you shall find answers you seek.
If not, just come back! :smile-new:

 

That might be a zener diode (looks like it from the pic) so rules are different for testing.

Sorry bud, really feeling the op I had on friday today so not thinking to well.

 

Different rules? Bah! Why is the world so complicated? :grief:

 

Yea you need to test with known with resistance and a power supply to get the break down voltage, it's all fuzzy lol! Been many years since I tested for that sort of thing.

 

Oh, so those components don't register as a "complete" circuit do they? Then I have no idea where to go from here. Do you think my assumption that power isn't getting where it needs to be right?

 

The detachable wire goes to the led you should patch it somehow and see if the situation improves. but really at this point what you need to do is disassembly the unit and connect the drive to the power board then measure all connections from the power board to the connector which goes to the ram adapter. Best yet would be if you opened the ram adapter too and tested the whole path.

 

I just completed tidying up the SH2 CPU power leads in the Sophia.
The power headers were absent as the SH2 CPUs were a different revision to what Sophia was expecting.
Still it worked out well. Needed two 2mm pin pitch connectors, not 2.54mm as I found out.
Spliced the cables together and a little heat shrinking later... viola!

 

"Patch it"? Like, bridge the connection removing the LED from the loop?

I've been using a multimeter and see where everything goes, I can go from the red wire on the drive up to the RAM connector. I can't find anything beyond that. Connecting the RAM cart up doesn't complete the circuit, I still can't get a complete connection from the batteries to the disk drive for the red wire. I'll open up the RAM cart and see if I can find where it goes from the RAM connector, maybe the RAM cart was damaged somehow?

 

So a family member brings me his PS3 to fix, he use to be a TV tech, its a version 3.15 first gen slimline.

He managed to some how break the top case open, as he didn't have a T6 with a security pin.
Blew the PSU, sky high, how I have no idea.
Destroy the dvd rom, controller board (soldered all the fuses shut and even some resistors 0.o)

I recommended to him to rather replace it as its going to be a lot to fix,but he begs me to go and fix it.

Rip a brand new drive out of one of my other machines(bad Nor, motherboard will be dead forever)
Order him a new PSU and its the expensive 18a on 12v rail version.
Have him nag me day and night while I wait for the PSU from china.

It finally arrives, I cant find my factory service dongle, rummaged trough my parts and find a Pic19f4550, build a new service dongle.
Re-marrry the blue-ray drive.

And now finally got it to boot up to play a game, just to notice, that the screen flickers randomly, and sometimes displays garbage,soon it will YLOD

Why oh why did I try and fix a console for a family member

 

2 slot MVS board (MV2F) with rodent piss damage:

Section1: slot switching


Section 2: PIXEL/GFX parallel to serial converter and a bit more of slot switching circuit:


Section 3: LSPC2-A2


Section 2 re-populated after chips had oxide sanded out of their pins: (all four pictured custom chips were reworked)


LSPC2-A2 re-populated (new chip as original lost the pins to corrosion):

8 traces were re-built under the LSPC2-A2 chip.

 

My last repair was an Neo geo MV-1FZ, It was giving some ram errors because of the battery.

 

Adjusted my Gamecube's pot after it finally stopped reading my discs despite it working fine for quite a while. I just got lucky by slightly jigging it counterclockwise, as the guide says and it works fine. A pesky game that usually had the laser making louder clicking noises works better, though it now loads a bit longer. I'll take that over the sound.

 

Lucky! It's been like a year since I did something to FUBAR one Gamecube reading discs, still in the works now.

 

NEO-AES3-6 motherboard with severe trace damage on the B1 chip, a pair of CPU control signal related traces and work RAM areas:



Turns out that these HYUNDAI chips were also fubar'd and I ended replacing them with a pair of SONY chips.

The faults were:

WORK RAM completely ruined by corrosion prevented it from booting. Once Workram was repaired, an additional trace (near the YM2610) with the LDS signal (control strobe for lower 8 bit word) was patched. The system would not boot still. I removed the (pictured) HYUNDAI chips and replaced them with SONY chips. The system now would boot correctly but would now play the game at 5 frames per second. Another trace were found broken at 68000 pin 25 (IPL0) which caused the CPU to acknowledge the interruption incorrectly. That was the cause of the slowdown.

Finally for the graphics glitch, pin 73 of NEO-B1 chip which connects to LSPC2-A2 chip is part of the graphics transfer bus. Due to that signal being missing there were black pixels on the screen at fixed intervals inside of the sprites (graphics looked like filtering section of a strainer...).

Feels great to bring another poor mistreated NEO-GEO AES back to the game.

 

What is it with people mistreating their AESes, it's like almost every AES repair story I've heard has involved corrosion and bad traces.

 

Not a repair but more of a add on that I did some time ago.

I added a usb cord to my gba sp and dsi/3ds ac adapter and it works a treat for charging.

 

Not a big repair but I adjusted my Net Yaroze driver... The lens was at 8,8mV instead of 11,4mV (WTF?)

Bias & Gain too...now working like a charm!

 

I wish it were just that. I had one AES repair months ago (same customer as this last AES and the MV2F) where a dumbass plugged the poor unit (it was a 5V AES) to 10v PSU and it fried the rams and the LSPC2-A2 chip. An MVS had to die to make the AES work again. SAD, SAD story.

You know that's the kind of stuff you get when you buy these from auctions untested. I've been helping this guy with his purchases for a good while now.

 

First, I've replaced crappy Sega buttons on my Virtua Stick Pro HSS-0130 with the new genuine Sanwa buttons:






Then, I've resoldered guts of the Famicom Joypad Converter to make it work with my DB15 Famiclone system:



Famicom pinouts: 8–GND, 9–VCC, 10–CLOCK, 11–DATA, 12–P/S
Famiclone pinouts: 1–GND, 8–DATA, 9–CLOCK, 12–P/S, 15–VCC