What repairs have you done recently?

Pink DS lite. Broken on eBay for 8 bucks CIB.

Someone tried a ghetto fuse bridge and didn't even bridge the right traces. Dumbass.

Replaced fuses, sold for $65.





GBA with washed out screen, 5.50 on eBay.

POT was turned WAY up for some reason. Whatever. Screen yanked, backlight kit installed, and is current test bed for all manner of wacky products/services from myself

 

Restored two XBOX Samsung drives. One wouldn't open at all, and the other would open half way. Neither would read original discs.

Re-greased rails
Cleaned laser
Re-aligned trays

yet to sell though.

 

Last lot of repairs/mods/whatever for Game Traders.



A bunch of UK power supplies with Aussie power leads (strip out the rubber grommet from the old lead and use a standard figure 8 cable and fit alltogether).
N64 not working....Installing a Jumper Pack works wonders hey....

No more now. I can now have time to concentrate on my health and family.

 

attempted to repair my old dead famiclone (it was my second console), but can't find why it isn't working. 7805 is fine, seems to power ok, but no video in component or rf...to be continued.

 

Got 6 Sega Saturns for $55 shipped. They had minor problems like broken power switches, broken door or the lens just needed a wipe. Swapped in some good condition parts and they work great, although the cases are scratched. I had to completely strip down two of them to clean out the layers of dust and hair.

Managed to get 5 of them clean and working. One of them displays scrambled graphics which I have no idea about.

Will be getting 6 more for $45 shipped. Hopefully they will be an easy fix.

 

Geez, so many Saturns! And you get to fix them! I'm jealous! :biggrin-new:

 

I recently fixed a Nintendo 64 AV Cable. It had a damaged wire.

 

Fixed my PAL DC's resetting problem (nice and easy!) and fixed a sloppy trigger on my DC light gun - swapped out the old micro switch for a new one and reinforced the trigger so that it hits the contact without bending back. Feels absolutely solid on HotD2 when I gave it a quick whirl, possibly better than my other DC light gun that still works like new!

 

I've started on replacing my friends GBC speaker, sound comes out but its total ear rape. Tried re-soldering the points to see if they were dry... nope. Plugged in headphones and sound was perfect. So its just a bad speaker bought a working one for $3.50 and now just waiting for it to arrive so I can finish the job.

 

I've recently found out that you can use a DS Speaker as a replacement. You just have to mod the case to fit the notch of the speaker.

 

Mint looking CIB SCPH-15000 which was bought as faulty:

Would crash randomly during use or have no video at all when hot. Seller alleges it was working fine then eventually quit displaying video and never worked again.

I bought it because it looked great and I was curious about the fault. Laser pickup is perfect and the system does not seem like it got extreme usage.

An mod in the fan (which I already undid) suggests that the original owner expected the crashes to be caused by overheating. (seems like it was modded in Japan by it's original user)

The defect behavior was that once the console was ran for a while it would crash randomly. Letting it run for a while after crashed revealed that the sound would not stop (IOP CPU is still running after crash) and at random intervals the sound and IOP would slow (sound would down pitch a lot and IOP would slow down the notes being played), suggesting an anomaly on the clock generation circuitry.

The EE is extremely sensitive to clock issues as it relies heavily on timers and other related stuff for it's communication with both IOP and GS chips through SIF and GIF respectively.

After these considerations I pulled the schematics for GH-010 motherboard (which is the earliest type of motherboard schematics were leaked to the public domain) and followed the clock flow:


18mhz clock crystal > RDRAM +EE > 36mhz + 33mhz > IOP > SPU/DEV9/CD DSP

54mhz > GS

16mhz > IOP (direct, I suspect this clock is used for the USB ports)

24mhz > IOP (direct, for iLINK/s400 port)

After a lot of rework on the parts related to clock generation (SCPH-10000/15000 have two 18mhz crystals as it has a separated clock gen for RDRAM and another for the EE chip) I eventually got the unit to stop crashing.

I replaced:

2 18mhz crystals
4 SMD ferrite beads
2 resistors
the two clock synthesizer chips (1 from Texas instruments, another from Cypress)

re-soldered another bunch of parts on the clock line with particular attention to the 33mhz line which drives the SPU.
And finally reflowed the IOP chip.

Been a few hours already it's crash free.

 

Recently got 3 big boxes full of different broken Dreamcast parts (approx. 15-20 disassembled units). Replaced about 100 different electronic components (video/audio DAC, GD-ROM drivers, capacitors and power MOSFETs in power supplies, broken spindle motors, etc.). Managed to assemble 10 working units, the rest are not repairable.

 

Just fixed a xbox V1.4 Pal system, the power supply kept on blowing parts on the secondary side, no matter what I replaced, tested everything I could and it should have worked,so i am guessing one of the transformers is to blame, luckily it was a foxlink, PSU and I had a matching one but 110v, so moved mostly everything from the primary side of the bad PSU to the 110v PSU to make it work on 220V, worked perfectly allso flashed its tsop and installed some custom software

Very minor and nothing technical though...

 

I would repair the other Foxlink PSU you scrapped. It's quite easy repair since it's made only of standard off shelf parts. Very likely that the board with the PWM chip is faulty.

I HATE DELTA and MINEBEA powersupplies for having custom chips in them ... >_<

 

Normally I would too, sadly, it was a urgent repair as there going back to the cape tomorrow, but I still got the broken one, rebuilding the primary is pretty easy and I can do it in the coming weeks without hassle

The only thing I dislike about foxlink is that they appear to be a bit less efficient, and produce more heat, I might be wrong though its only a observation.

 

Maybe you can even convert it to 220V ?

 

Well if I can find a place that sells the extra transformer the 220v version has, I would

 

I think that's just a damped filter for filtering transients from the PWM/buck circuit inside the PSU, which is required by some European countries.

That "transformer" has only 2 wires, which makes it more of a large inductor than actually a transformer.

 

So it might work without, I will test it when I get time, thanks for correcting me upon further inspection your right its most likely an inductor

PS Thanks for the help

 

Juts salvaged 3 Gameboys that had bad screen. I had a bunch of original Gameboys, some with vertical lines missing. Soldering trick worked. I still have 1 with partially ripped connector, I'm going to set it aside as I can't fix it myself. Still a few more Gameboy to test.