US Helder's modding parts & systems sales

When I mentioned audiophiles not using ceramic caps that was tongue in cheek. The principle reason is that ceramics aren't linear, which only matters in the case of filters. The only "filters" in the "Mega Amp" are the ac coupling capacitors used to bias the signals. Their time-constant should be low enough that the distortion is negligible (since all frequencies of interest are supposed to pass with minimal reactance). Ceramic caps also pick up noise from mechanical vibrations (maybe sound itself), but from your audio sample the signal to noise ratio is so low ("lo-fi") that surely it would swamp out any mechanical noise.

I would seriously look into raising the SNR with a better board layout, filtering and AC gain etc because you have some very audible noise. There's an obnoxious noise tone right at the start of the track! Possibly from amp oscillation or a bad grounding scheme, or just inherent to the YM chip itself.

 

The "amp" itself could actually be designed better for the same cost or less. Right now it's a textbook op amp mixing circuit, with twice as many op amps as necessary. The apparent improvement in fidelity over stock sound is simply because the low-pass filters have been bypassed and not because noise has been reduced in the least (which is what hi-fi is about, and maybe isn't even feasible given the technology). I'm sure the op amp gives marginally improved amplifier distortion figures too (the other consideration regarding hi-fi) over stock but that doesn't even matter when you have inherent distortion and noise from a soundchip's crappy DAC and no reconstruction filtering. Really there should be some low-pass filtering, but perhaps the cutoff should be a bit higher than the stock console which would let more treble through. That would also make good use of the two currently unused op amps.

 

Bump

 

Since I don't see these selling any further I'm going to offer the RGB to component board that I designed for various systems as an extra option for only $10 more. I've also lowered the price of the full panel socket.

 

Hi!

I want one for a NES FRONT Loader and one for an TOP Loader.
(Full Kit is with Board to get Video?)
What is your price incl shipping to Germany?

 

I do not need the kit right now but that is pretty neat Helder.

 

Ok let me make something clear that probably isn't to some people who don't know about this. This kit is for those who want to add a nice simple connector that will interface with a Wii cable and the RGB to Component board is mainly used for North American people since we don't have RGB. To make full use of this kit you will need the NESRGB by viletim which I don't have or sell, so if you do have the NESRGB board and want the connector then that's fine but if you don't my "video board" is useless to you. Send me a PM and I will give you a price.

I currently have 2 Wii PCBs so I can only sell 2 more full sets or screw sets or a combination of each until I get some more.

 

I just paid for one of the top loader panels with the rgb to component boards.

I've been wanting that variant all along.

 

Great so now I can do one more of either the full socket or screw socket since I'm only down to 1 more Wii PCB till maybe 2 weeks.

 

Is it possible to get those connector without taking them off Wii motherboards?

I just bought a cheap lot of 5 broken wii with the idea of trying to fix them

 

These connectors are brand new and not taken off of the Wii, BuffaloWing designed the 3D part and I designed the PCB to work with the sockets. BuffaloWing engineered these from the ground up as straight up replacements for the Toploader and as an easier alternative than salvaging from a real Wii or SNES.

 

Just grabbed the last screw socket w/ component board, so that one's sold out now.

 

Yes, I'm out of stock for another 2 weeks but maybe less as it depends on the PCB Fabricator.

 

bumpo

 

Please add a validation picture within 24 hours, as required by the marketplace rules. This must contain your user name, the name of the site and the date.

http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?4888-MARKETPLACE-RULES-as-of-September2013

I know you've done so on your other posts, so it probably just slipped your mind on this one

Thanks!

 

No problem, been fixed.

 

Hi Helder,

is is there a reason you chose 22uF instead of 220uF for the capacitors on the output of the amp (C11,12,13)?

 

It provided the same filtering and I have seen it used in another project that required a 220uf as well as 470uf and was replaced with 22uf ceramic cap. Honestly the sound using a 220uf or the 22uf ceramic are the same to my ear anyways and have tested both cap values with the same audio track and you can't tell much of a difference.

 

Typical pre-amps have above 10k ohms input impedance. 22 uF yields a high-pass cutoff of 0.7 Hz, well below audible frequency.