USB GDrom Thread

D2 swap is broken too in the latest fw. Spoke to Mnemo and he said he will look into it but is on vacation till the 23rd Sep.

 

Just sent Mnemo an order for one of these. Hopefully he won't take too long to reply after his vacation.

 

Another data point for anyone who's wondering when they'll hear about an order: I sent an order in mid July. Just got an invoice on Sunday. Call it 2 months. I am stoked to be getting one though.

 

I paid a few days a go. How long does it take to usually ship out?

It took a really long time (over month), from when I first sent him a request, to when I got an invoice. I was actually shocked when I received it. I thought he didn't want to do business with me, for whatever reasons.

 

Mileage seems to vary from person to person. Some have gotten it less than a week after paying. Some have gotten it almost 6 weeks after paying. So a safe bet would be anywhere between 1-6 weeks.

 

Ordered July 5th, paid September 5 and received September 23.

 

thx

 

Ordered July 22, paid Aug 18, received Sep 2 (6 weeks from order to delivery).

 

I ordered mine on July 31. Got my invoice (and paid) on September 19. I'll chime in, when I receive it. Pretty stoked. I got a Phoebe recently, and I love it, so I'm sure this should be awesome too.


Also, I am curious...is there a cover, that anyone has made for this? Like a 3D print?
Here's one for the GDEMU: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1585333

Not sure if anyone has made one for this. Seems like someone should have, though.

 

I also have the same problem with a 256GB USB 3.0 stick, but it only seems to happen at the first power up after I install it. Anyway, that problem probably needs to be fixed, after the swap issues and any other regressions.

A hard drive bracket would be nice. I think a bare laptop drive should just barely fit, if there's enough clearance for a USB to SATA adapter. And after removing the optical drive, the airflow may need to be rerouted.

 

I have one for the Rhea, but I don't really want one for the USB GDROM because I keep a harddrive plugged in so I don't have to ever open it. Plus you can't loose things inside like you can on the Saturn.

 

Well, that was fast. Device arrived today, only a week to Illinois. I didn't expect to have it for at least a few more weeks so I haven't even bought a USB drive for it yet

 

Hi people! Long time lurker, first time posting.

I finally got around to installing a UGC that I ordered during Nov 2015 and it has firmware 15-11-25a. It works perfectly, installed the lid switch to be able to reset the console, hacked the lower metal cover of the GD-ROM to be able to use it and preserve airflow over the psu, left the black plastic shroud to keep usb sticks in… anyway… I was wondering if someone has compiled a changelog of the different firmware revisions for the UGC. I am considering upgrading, but I have everything working for every game I play and I dont see a need to upgrade unless there is a super killer feature.

EDIT: I ordered in Nov 2015 and received it a few weeks after in Nov 2015, I just installed it now. I didnt wait 10+ months!

EDIT 2: I compiled a small list of versions, based on the info available on this thread, it has firmware date, page and comment of thread that references it, and changes introduced. I dont know if its helpful, but here it is…

??/??/??
P1, #5
Changes:
- cdi implemented
- Lid switch now working for swap (X button to choose Image for swap )
- speed increased +25-30%
- Menu improved

??/??/??
page2, #23
Changes:
- cdi implemented
- Lid switch now working for swap Image («X» button for choice the Image )
- Speed increased +25%
- Menu improved
- «Region Free» can be ON or OFF

15/07/28
page9, #166
Changes:
Unknown new features

15/11/20(a)
page16, #301
Changes:
Unknown new features

15/11/25(a)
page31, #616
Changes:
Unknown new features

15/12/18
page21, #407 & #410
Changes:
- USB Host code

16/04/26 (dl)
page23, #446
Changes:
- improved HDD compatible
- swapping D2 Images now working
- fixed another bug at swap Images
- fixed issue “Linux writing”
- fixed few minor issues/bugs

16/08/16 (dl)
page28, #550 / page29, #568
Changes:
- implemented Ghost Blade and Pier Solar
- implemented GDI Images with DATA tracks 2048 bytes per sector (less size, more speed)
(for example http://3do-renovation.ru/pict/CT2k.gif)
** REGRESSION (page 31, #604): swapping in D2 not working (Confirmed page32, #622)

 

Mine came in today. I paid for it on the 19th, of September. So, close to two weeks. Not too bad.

A question for you guys. I haven't had this installed yet, but I've been watching some vids on YT about how to use the software.
Do you still have to go into a game's folder and and click on it's image file? Can you still not just click the folder of the game, and it just runs the file automatically, like in the homebrew software to the Phoebe or Rae?
So you can't have an EverDrive like list yet? If not, has anyone made any custom firmware, or has the creator of this board mentioned doing something like that in the future?

 

You have to enter the folder and choose the GDI manually and no mention of upcoming changes to the menu either.

D2 Swap is broken again on the latest version (well for me anyway, as nobody else has given their opinion on it)

Was working fine on version - 16/04/26. Emailed Mnemo and stlll waiting for confirmation on it.

 

nvm

 

Just tried D2 on my DC with latest firmware. I can confirm its not working

I also just emailed mnemo on it too

Im sure someone already has said this but can firmware be downgraded?

 

Thanks for you're confirmation on it not working too. Please update here, if you hear back from Mnemo. Last I heard he was on vacation till the 23rd last month and would check it on his setup at home. Not heard nothing since regarding this.

Sadly, no it isn't at this time.

 

Ill add this info to the list I compiled and try to keep it up to date.

 

To resistor or not to resistor, that's the question. That 300 Ω 1/2 Watt (or 330 Ω 1/2 Watt from RadioShack) option has been debated. Some claim it doesn't matter and others say you'll fry your system if you don't do it. Is it based on region of power supply?

I'm in the USA and I can get cheap resistors, see RadioShack link above. I don't want to disable my supply by cutting traces or desoldering items. I also don't want to add unnecessary fans.

Would the better option be to lead the fans to the supply by using plastic, like the plastic they use between the supply and lens? How about just leaving the DC lid open?

I'm all about options here and I'd love to get some insight on the best options available.