Xbox 360 fat region-free mod suggestions? (screw online)

Discussion in 'Modding and Hacking - Consoles and Electronics' started by FireAza, Aug 31, 2015.

  1. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    "Other wires" as in there's two more plugs on the programmer aside from the 7 wire one you use to program the NAND.

    Ah, okay. Maybe that's why this programmer costs more? It can program multiple things?

    Anyway, I've got my project for the weekend! As a general use question, can a hacked 360 be connected to a Windows PC so you can copy stuff to and from the hard drive? Or do you need to connect the HDD itself as an external drive?
     
  2. fate6

    fate6 Haha, I killed a Pumpkin!

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    You can FTP to it or even setup the SDK neighborhood to have the hdd show up like any other folder.
     
  3. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Which method do you recommend? FTP normally means you need to install FTP software on your PC, something basic that works out of the box with Windows explorer would be nice.

    What other functionally do you gain from JTAGing a 360? I know you can play imports, copy disks to the HDD and install XBLA games is there anything else? Like, installing home brew software updates that translates Japanese games or something?
     
  4. fate6

    fate6 Haha, I killed a Pumpkin!

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    Yep translation mods will work but I don't think there are many of them.

    Anywhoo I recommend setting up Xbox 360 neighborhood but I don't know how you would do that on a retail system, I just know it's possible.

    XBNHGB.png

    Your Xbox will show different drives since yours is a retail system while mine is a DevKit but the usage is the same.
     
  5. HEX1GON

    HEX1GON FREEZE! Scumbag

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  6. sp193

    sp193 Site Soldier

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    You don't need additional software to FTP files with Windows.
    One could do that with (Internet) Explorer, since Internet Explorer was integrated into Explorer since Windows 95C.
     
  7. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Okay, FTP sounds best then!

    Okay, I've got the programmer soldered in place along with the wires for the CR4XL. I haven't soldered the wires to the CR4XL yet, as I've read online that you're suppose to use J-Runner to read and write the NAND first. Is that the case?

    Speaking of J-Runner, it seems like I can choose what version dashboard to use. Which should I choose? The latest one? Or would this effect what I can do with the system? I assume that this doesn't determine what the dashboard itself will look like? So if I wanted a dashboard that looked like the old Blades dashboard, this would be a skin and isn't determined by what version dashboard I'm running?

    Also, in terms of what type of hack I should be doing, I've read online that JTAG is better than RGH2 for fat models. It also gives a faster boot. Is this true? Guides I read online say that if you're doing JTAG to check the R-JTAG and aud_clamp boxes, that's correct then?
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  8. fate6

    fate6 Haha, I killed a Pumpkin!

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    I completely forgot that you can FTP stright from explorer, sooo yea that is the simpler option.

    EDIT: The Dashboard is important, use the newest one to be able to play newer games and no you can't change the dash like that so no blades unfortunately.
     
  9. Taijigamer2

    Taijigamer2 Gutsy Member

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    Rjtag is faster in general but u can also get lucky with RGH2 , I would use Rjtag for personal installs.

    Rjtag + aid clamp as U are using the v3 qsb with aud clamp.

    Select the latest dash board available through jrunner otherwise the most recent games will not run.

    I sometimes install it all before doing a nand dump, sometimes I install nand reader first, read nand, then install glitch chip. It doesn't make any difference. Depends on personal preference.

    Remember to attach hdd, dvd, fans etc when fine tuning your boot times as this can affect the timings.
     
  10. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Awesome, thanks guys! Will start the NAND overwriting process! My 360 is a 16MB Jasper by the way.

    Out of curiosity, since we're able to access and overwrite the NAND, why do we even need the CR4XL chip? Why can't we overwrite the NAND with a modified version like on the Xbox and Wii? Does the 360 have additional security outside of the NAND?
     
  11. fate6

    fate6 Haha, I killed a Pumpkin!

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    iirc something else checks hashes or something for the NAND.
     
  12. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Oh I see.

    Anyway, I've run into a bit of trouble. While trying to solder the point B wire (grey wire) to the CR4XL after soldering it to the Xbox, the wire straight-up lifted away and tore off the pad! I've tried the alternate point mentioned in this video:



    But now the console won't power on! I've got the red light on the CR4XL, so power is getting to the unit. But pressing the power button or eject button does nothing and I don't get any green lights on the CR4XL.

    I've checked my solder joints, the NAND points were actually kinda messed up (pretty sure this happened while I was re-assembling the console) so I cleaned them up and now the joints look great. Also tried cleaning up any flux. Still can't get a peep out of it when I press the power button.

    I've tried reconnecting it to the programmer and checking the NAND, but I just get a "can not continue" error.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
  13. Taijigamer2

    Taijigamer2 Gutsy Member

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  14. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Seriously? That one little pad is enough to kill it? Well, here's a photo:

    [​IMG]

    So, basically just bridge the broken pad? Should I then solder the grey wire to the trace repair wire or is it fine on the alternate point I linked to?
     
  15. Taijigamer2

    Taijigamer2 Gutsy Member

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  16. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Okay, I've repaired the trace and now the console starts! No green light on the CR4XL though. I suspect the cpu_rst solder point, I just can't get the bastard to stick to the alternate point! I've fluxed it to hell, but solder refuses to bond to the little resister. Any tips? Or is there a way to solder to the standard point with the shielded cable? It's too thick to fit into any of the holes in the board to make it to the underside of the board.
     
  17. Taijigamer2

    Taijigamer2 Gutsy Member

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    Please post pics off ALL soldering. Well done on repairing STBY_CLK, that point is a bastard if ppl mess it up. Why are u not using original cpu_rst point? Sorry just read that last bit. I used shielded cable in my last install, I passed under the board by the rear fans, but of a fiddle. The cable is very chunky, I would tape it down before soldering to any point or it will likely rip the point clean off. You would be safer with standard blue wire.

    Have u read nand 3 times and created xell for jasper AUD clamp rjtag?
     
  18. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Okay, I tried installing the rest wire to the normal point... After I was done, I was taping down the cable, and the pad tore off this one too! Seriously? Do they make them out of wafers or something?!

    Here's some photos:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Yeah, I did the NAND read (4 times!), create XELL, write XELL process with the aud and JTAG boxes checked. Everything checked out it said.
     
  19. Taijigamer2

    Taijigamer2 Gutsy Member

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    That's why I said tape it down Before soldering it. Otherwise your soldering is very good, just bad luck with those points. Do u have a picture of the top point? U can just remove R8C2 and bridge that point then solder to the pad nearby (J8C1.2) if that is easier. R8C2 is not needed for the jtag to boot but it will affect the reset pulse if u leave it there. It's a 1 kOhm resistor.
     
  20. FireAza

    FireAza Shake! Shake!

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    Yeah, I got it backwards and taped it AFTER soldering it, my bad! Turns out the thickness of the cable is enough to pull the pad right out! Yeah, my soldering has been getting better. Turns out the secret is lots of flux and being a bit more generous with the temperature of the iron. Getting some nice shiny joins now!

    Yeah, here's a photo:
    [​IMG]

    Removing that damned resister sounds good, if doing so also improves boot times, even better! Where's J8C1.2 hiding? I can see a J8C1, but not a 1.2.

    Wait, you wouldn't happen to be referring to that big set of through points would you? The entire set is "J8C1" and each of the points are ".1, .2, .3" etc? Which would mean the big, juicy solder point with the "2" below it is "J8C1.2"? That would be ideal to solder to, it's nice and big and I could even solder from the other side of the board to hold it nice and firm!
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2015
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