Xbox 360 fat region-free mod suggestions? (screw online)

Not sure if I'm doing this right. I can't seem to get the console to shut down via J-Runner (nudge button?) and I'm now only seeing up to post 19 in the logs, even on the settings I used before. I'm suppose to be using the "phat" option in Rater right?

*EDIT* Ah, seems like you need to have the NAND wires connected too to let J-Runner control startup and shutdown. However in my case, it can only shutdown, when I press start, I need to manually press the power button. I sign of an issue?

 

Hi, make sure rater is set to CR4. 'Phat' gives the old full post log relevant to original Rjtag. CR4 only uses a single postout (post0) so 'phat' results will be skewed.

Make sure Nand wires and kiosk wire are soldered properly otherwise u will get inconsistent booting. The 'nudge' just puts the console into another cycle before the cool off period has finished (impatient ). I usually set it to 10 boots and reduce the cool off period to 60 secs (speeds up process without stressing cpu too much.)

Have u tried all combos. Please post results.

 

Okay, I've tried again in "CR4" mode but I still can't seem to get any futher than 19:

Code:

Slim Selected
Version: 10
Power Up
Waiting for POST to change
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Post 01 
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Post 04 
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Post 11 - FSB_CONFIG_PHY_CONTROL 
Post 12 - FSB_CONFIG_RX_STATE 
Post 13 - FSB_CONFIG_TX_STATE 
Post 14 - FSB_CONFIG_TX_CREDITS 
Post 16 - FETCH_HEADER 
Post 17 - VERIFY_HEADER 
Post 18 - FETCH_CONTENTS 
Post 19 - HMACSHA_COMPUTE 
Post 1A - RC4_INITIALIZE 
Post 1B - RC4_DECRYPT 
Post 1C - SHA_COMPUTE 
Post 1D - SIG_VERIFY 
Post 1E - BRANCH 
Post 1F 
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Shutdown
Slim Selected
Version: 10
Power Up
Waiting for POST to change
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Post 11 - FSB_CONFIG_PHY_CONTROL 
Post 12 - FSB_CONFIG_RX_STATE 
Post 13 - FSB_CONFIG_TX_STATE 
Post 14 - FSB_CONFIG_TX_CREDITS 
Post 15 - FETCH_OFFSET 
Post 16 - FETCH_HEADER 
Post 17 - VERIFY_HEADER 
Post 19 - HMACSHA_COMPUTE 
Post 1A - RC4_INITIALIZE 
Post 1B - RC4_DECRYPT 
Post 1C - SHA_COMPUTE 
Post 1D - SIG_VERIFY 
Shutdown
CR4 Selected
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Shutdown

I've moved around the jumper, switched on the dip switches in all manner of positions, but I can't seem to improve over 19.

 

Your install is not getting past the glitch part. If u have tried all dips (1-6) and post bit jumpers, then I'm afraid there is probably an issue with your Cpu_rst line. The repair may be an issue. Also try the standard blue wire. Good luck. If that is a no go, u may have to consider a different motherboard.

 

Can't seem to improve things. Tried re-doing the cpu reset trace repair, it's nice and solid and the multi-meter says it's correct, I've tried all kinds of configurations, still only goes to post 19.

I would give the blu wire a try, but that would involve having to un-solder the shielded wire, which will involve my trace repair getting un-soldered too. I then think about how this system was never even able to get to the XELL boot stage, which is suppose to be pretty simple to do. I've decided it would be much better to just try a new board, this time with the missing QSBs to avoid any pads getting pulled. The install guide also says that the CR4XL was made with the QSBs in mind and is suppose to work better with them.

So I ordered the two missing QSBs from Aliexpress (THESE ONES) and I've found a 2009 Arcade unit with a bum disk drive for cheap. These are exactly the same as a normal 360 save for the white disk tray and no included HDD right? Shouldn't be a problem to pop the disk drive from my original 360 into this one, right?

I think I'll do the "remove resister, bridge points and solder the cpu reset wire to that nice big solder point that you pointed out. This is a much more solid install and as you said, it should also improve on the boot too.

On a similar note, is the shell of the Arcade the same too? Like, same color and build? So if need be, I could use the shell from my original system?

 

A 2009 arcade will be a jasper like the one u have so its a good choice. Qsb can help avoid pulled pads and make it easier to solder in tricky areas of the board but if u have skill then a wire install will work just aswell. Tx saying it 'made the CR4 with Qsb in mind' is just marketing. In fact there is little use in Rgh2+ as the 5 wires are all in different parts of the board.

I have had some boards which wouldn't boot with the top cpu_rst point, only the bottom one. So your current board could be no good.

Removing the resistor on the top point is only necessary when using the J8C1 header, it won't help the boot happen any faster.

If u want to swap in your old dvd drive, u will need to flash the new mobo Dvd key to its firmware. this will require a pc sata card or X360UsbPro. U can use any of the other parts to build you xbox, fans, grills, shell, they are all interchangeable. My personal rjtag Is a mix of several consoles. I kept all the best parts from my modding/ repairing days and built a personal beast, black elite shell, blue talismoon fans, 500Gb hdd, liteon dvd.

 

Well, I like the more solid install of soldering the cpu reset wire to the J8C1 point, so I think I'll do just that. If I never try to solder to the resister, this should avoid stressing out the pad, which will hopefully avoid the problem if it going missing.

Hmmmm, what about if I just swapped over the circuit board? Would that work to make the DVD drive compatible?

 

I would start with the underside cpu_rst point first and use the blue wire.

The dvd and motherboard are 'married' by a dvd key stored in the dvd pcb and the kv on the nand. Your 3 options are - 1 keep the dvd drive from the new xbox, 2 flash the new dvd key to your old dvd drive or 3 if u know the dvd key from your old drive, change the key in the new kv to match your original dvd drive.

 

That's a good point, if I get insta-booting with the blue wire, might as well leave it as is.

If the DVD key is stored on the drive's PCB, can't I just swap the PCBs over? Or are there compatibility issues between different drives?

 

It all depends on your needs.

If your personal xbox's physical dvd drive (ie not pcb related) dies then u could swap out the pcb to a new drive (of same manufacture) because the pcb has your correct dvd key. Most of the time it's the pcb or laser that dies in which case just change laser or put new pcb in, but that would need a dvd flash with correct key for that console.

Otherwise any kind of pcb swap to a new replacement motherboard is going to require reading or writing the dvd drive.

If u have nothing special about your current dvd drive, I would just use the drive that comes with the new console.

When doing a pcb transfer u need to match manufacturer, ie Samsung - samsung, hitachi - hitachi. The exception is liteon and beng-q as they are both Philips, they have the same case and laser etc, just need to re-wire slightly. I know because I've done it. I might do a tutorial on it if I have the time.

 

Well, it's just that I know there is some issue with the drive on this new 360. I don't have it yet, so I'm not sure what it might be. But I needed to replace the whole drive, then I was hoping I could use this one. Plus, I've already gone to the effort of cleaning and greasing it up. What would be my simplest option if I needed to swap the drives over?

 

It would depend on the problem and what drive u get with the new one, if it's not a pcb problem then swap out the new pcb into your old working drive. If it is a pcb issue then u will need to flash the new dvd key to your old drive or change the the new kv to match old drive.

Going back to the initial direction of your thread, if u want to have a console which is region free and can play burnt discs aswell as retail, then u will need to flash Lt3.0 firmware to the drive. The cheapest way to do this is with a via6421 chipset in your pc. If your pc has sata ports then these might work also. This will also be useful if u need to flash a dvd key at same time.

 

I don't think I'll need the ability to use burned disks. All my games are pressed originals, I'd probably only need the ability to run burns for like a leaked un-released game or something. And I could just upload an ISO instead couldn't I?

The new 360 arrived! The second I plugged it in and heard the tray motor spinning as free as the wind blows, I knew what the problem was. Yep, the belt. To be precise, there was no belt attached at all! Well, both drives are Philips lite-ons which were manufactured only 1 month apart, so I think the best solution would be a PCB swap. Not just for the reasons I mentioned before, but I also don't trust a drive that eats belts. This is as simple and unplugging the ribbon cables, de-soldring the motor wires then plugging the ribbon cables back in the re-soldering the motor, yes?

 

It would be easier to transfer the drive belt. But if that's what u want to do. It will involve desoldering 2 tray motor wires, 2 left tray sensor wires and 2 right tray sensor wires. The rest are ribbon cables if I remember correctly.

 

Well, the older drive also seems to be in better condition too. The newer drive is really dirty and there's a little plastic numb on the top that's broken off.

I was cleaning up the shell last night and by a lucky coincidence, the half that's a little yellowed on the new 360 isn't yellowed on the old 360 and the half that's a little yellowed on the old 360 isn't yellowed on the new 360! It's also the top half, so no need to swap over the stickers either!

 

If it's a disk drive swap you want then just move the PCB, That's it.
I have done it by cutting the wires but desoldering them would be far cleaner and just simply a better idea.

 

Okay, I've FINALLY been able to restart this project! I had ordered the missing QSBs from Aliexpress, but they never turned up and I had to wait over a month before I could claim lost item. I ordered another set and they finally arrived. I've got them all installed, but I'm falling at the first step. I'm trying to read my NAND, but J-Runner says "Flash Config: 0x00000000 Can not Continue". Now I could swear this error would also appear on my old 360 and I had to do something to make it go away. I think it involved pressing the reset button on the JRprogrammer/restarting JRunner or something like that, but nothing seems to help.

As to my install, here's a photo:


I think there's nothing wrong with the install. I've checked continuity between the solder pads on the NAND QSB and the solder points on the reverse side of the 360s mainboard, they're connected. Just to make sure that it wasn't the repair job on the wires, I checked continuity between the JRProgrammer and the NAND QSB, I was getting connections for each wire. I have noticed there is continuity between the three side-by-side solder pads on the NAND QSB, but I'm not sure if that's how it's suppose to be. I don't see any obvious bridges between these three points.

 

I noticed that solder was soaking into the edges of the QSBs and creating bridges, so I've ditched the two of them. I've now been able to read the NAND and create and write XELL Reloaded. I'm up to the part where I should be able to get XELL to appear on screen, but nothing is appearing on my TV. I've got the blinking green light on the CR4. I've tried to get a log from CR PRO, but it keeps waiting for post. It can shut down the console though. The console also keeps giving me the three red lights. Basically, I'm now having the exact same problems that made me abandon the first 360. I can't seem to get Rater to run, it just sits there at "waiting for POST" and doesn't seem to notice when the console has been switched on. It can shutdown the console though.

Here's some photos of the install:

 

Make sure your wires are solderd to the right place and make sure your dioeds are going in the right direction. When I jtaged my 1st box I put the dioeds on backwards and got the rrod.

 

hi FireAza , ive done 3 of my Jasper 360's and they work great ive got more to do tho................


it looks like in your photo the Blue wire is running under the HANA Chip , try moving it away from that area. I also had this problem with one of my 360's and as soon as i moved it the 360 Glitched and XELL booted.

in pic ............XX are the Clamps and Blue wire below


good luck